Knight, Ultra fin & Propress

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Unistrut and loop hangers are my choice for supporting pipe in a pro looking manner :) I like to use the CushClamp style of unistrut for vibration noise transfer reduction.

Yes I have a handle conflict. Simply remove and flip over the handle. the stops may not align, but the handle will work, and look fine.

Actually the handle could be removed. Really no need for the homeowner to cycle that valve. I would know how to operate it without a handle, if needed. It's mainly my initial purge point. Trying to fit all the mechanical in a 4 foot wide space gets tight, sometimes.

hot rod

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In progress

this has several Ultra Fin zones and some slab. I'm trying the indirect via a 3 way zone valve instead of an additional circ.

I used my REMS Curvo with ProPress adapters and couplings to pipe the indirect and some of the boiler piping.

I lowered the supply tempearture at the boiler to 120. Anxious to see how the UltraFin performs at lower supply temperatures, as the weather cools down around here.

hot rod

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Weezbo

This is one of the threads that i had vanish.

now you have it lashed up it is looking real swoopy *~/:)

the use of a zone valve is no major mental leap buh the application of a three way now that took some observation meditation and consideration. *~/:)

that is outstanding .did you put those digital temp sensors on the supply and return to monitor back at the boiler? the temps at the indirect and at the boiler should indeed show that it is functioning correctly. the low water temp application of the ultra fin would be a pic to see, hate to ask buh, would you have any pics?

Dave_4

hi hotrod i know your the king of boiler install's and your work is absolutely beautiful. but with this boiler whats the black pump for i'm trying to trace the system out.

also because you have zone valves are you going to use a bypass to prevent pump from dead heading.

also are you pumping from the return? with the red pump

I'm still learning. so for give me :-)

thank you

Kevin O. Pulver

Rooster Boy

I'm still learning too, but I believe the black pump would be pumping INTO the boiler for the primary loop (as in primary secondary) "Into" because the low mass boilers have more pressure drop in the HX and they want to make sure they have good flow there all the time. (That is sort of backwards/different from the high mass boilers that they pumped away from)Of course the red one is for the secondary loop with all the zone valves. I don't know what you've read, but I would HIGHLY recommend all of Dan's books, and especially "pumping away" and "primary secondary piping" to help you learn lotsa stuff in a big hurry. Kevin

Heatmeister_2

Is this the install at your house?

I think I read an earlier thread that you installed the Lochinvar with Ultra fin in your house. If so I assume this is a retrofit? If so is your home older construction? I am attempting to do the same in my place. I have the basement gutted right now and am trying to get comfortable with the ultra fin with higher density plates b/c I wanna make sure it will provide enough heat. I am considering the Buderus, Prestige our Lochinvar as well.

I also want to do an Maxxon Thermafloor Gypcrete over pour with pex in floor and need to find out how much if any inslulation or barrier should be used in this application. Do you know?

Thanks

Darin Cook_2

Hot Rod

Just curious what do you use to securre all the loose piping hanging in your pic? I know this is still in progress. It is too bad you did not configure the webstone purge valve alittle different as it appears to hit the gas cock you used on the bottom of the air eliminator. I guess you will have to bend the handle now. I like how you swung the piping on the bottom of the three way valve to offset it instead of using cumbersome fittings. Keep up the sweet work.

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Mr. Meister

As for the UltraFin installation, this is a new construction job, but in your case do a heat load and determine the BTU/ square foot needed to meet the load. The UF charts will show the needed temperatures to met the load.

The lower the better IMO and most of the condensors have outdoor rest functions built in. use it to keep the temperatures in line with the loads

As Siggy mentioned, this is one of few if any radiant products that actually went to an independant lab for output testing. That is a very expensive step for any manufacture.

To me this is a much more believeable test than a back room test at a manufactures own facility. W-H stand behind their numbers.

I believe their output charts are resonable. Compare them to bare suspended tube for a comparison. There are thousands of suspended tube application in use.

The key to ANY system is the design and the installation.

As for the gyp over pour. I assume you mean gyp over an exisiting slab? I would check with Infloor or Hacker for their reccomend. I'm not sure foam would be a suitable insulation under gyp. I HAVE poured gyp over concrete without insulation and have had no problems.

Insulation is always best, especially if the current slab is un-insulated. It may not be do-able with a thin gyp over pour however. If thayt's the case go uninsulated and take the downward loss hit, or go with a dry system. personally the downward loss in an underground basement would not bother me that much. slab on grade would be a big concern, however.

Best get that answer and insulation detail from the manufacture that has to warranty the product(s)

This is my 3rd Knight install. I'm happy with the product, both quality and factory support.

hot rod

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Heatmeister_2

Thanks a ton!

I will keep you posted with my progress.