Moving my circulator.....update.

ralman

As I stated in a previous post, I finally worked up enough nerve to move my circulator. I started on Saturday, and 5 days later I am not finished. I don't know if this is going to work any better than when the circulator was incorrectly mounted. So far, I added a new Grundfos 15-58, 3 speed circulator, thinking the 3rd speed may improve flow and if not, I could leave it on speed 2 and have similar performance to the Taco 007 it replaces. I left the IFC in the circulator and removed the Taco 222 flo-chek which should eliminate some pressure drop. I am concerned that the IFC will launch out of the circulator on startup and get stuck in the pipes somewhere. Bad things like that seem to happen to me a lot. I added a system bypass and I hope it raises the zone average water temperature and provides some boiler protection. I changed the way the split loop returns tied together and eliminated the brass plug cocks. After I took everything apart I went to get materials and found out that the Macon balancing valves recommended by Brad White are not for sale in my area. No balancing valves or globe valves at all and every shop says they use ball valves. So I ended up with ball valves for my circulator relocation experiment. If it doesn't work, does anybody know of an internet resource for purchasing balancing valves? Then I wasn't sure if I needed to put anything on the circulator gaskets, the old gaskets seem to have some type of grease on them. The directions with the new circulator do not specify anything so I assumed they go in dry. Weezbo suggested Teflon paste but I could not find any of that at the supply house today. I never had a backflow preventer on the old makeup water line. I was able to locate and purchase one today. I also purchased a new PRV with a fast fill feature today. My old one did not have fast fill. I am currently trying to figure out how to tie the makeup water line into the expansion tank line. I am thinking I can remove the gate valve from the DHW coil and pipe from there to the expansion tank with a ball valve, then backflow preventer, then the PRV. I used a cross where I am going to place the expansion tank to give me a drain location for the supply line between the two isolation ball valves; and the makeup water line as well. I am stuck with the expansion tank calculation. I figured 8 PSI based on the math formula in the book. I don't have a handle on the procedure for setting the PRV, my book does not spell out that procedure. The old PRV has 12 PSI as the lowest available setting. The new PRV can be adjusted down to 10 PSI. I have not come up with a solution for that problem yet. Anyway, it looks like it will be a few days before I get it running again.

Ray Landry

looks much better, I would make sure to get rid of that steel ell and nipple on the city side of the backflow preventer and change it to brass.

ralman

Brass fittings.

I will do that. Thanks for helping me.

brucewo1b

So sorry, doubles again

brucewo1b

Ross

Just set the PRV at twelve higher is better than too low, you will not need higher unless its a three story building. If you have the black circ gaskets dry is probably fine the red ones are a bear to remove after a lot of heat has had there way with them, looking good though. I usually install a 1/2 inch male female ball valve in the bottom of the spirovent to facillitate repair of PRV or extrol tank.

ralman

Thanks Bruce

I do have a close nipple, ball valve, close nipple, cross, nipple then my expansion tank. I don't have everything put together yet. I worked on it a little this morning. I soldered a male adapter on to a .5" copper tube, then a ball valve. I removed the gate valve on the domestic coil and installed my fill line there. I was wondering if o-ring grease would be worthwhile to put on the circulator gaskets?