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one pipe steam venting & missing radiators
Matt_37
Member Posts: 9
I e-mailed Ken over the weekend looking for a distributor in the area (none) so I will probably get some direct. I'm pretty sure there will need to be a reducer (3/4" to 1/2") on the nipple to fit the #2 and will fit a 1/2" tee (?) for the two #1s. The second vent on the N main return looked like it was scabbed in...
I checked out my uncle's rental house that is having problems today - you should see the antique main vent on that thing. I am pretty sure it's clogged and causing problems.
Thanks and think about a trip to the Biltmore Estate during the holiday season. :)
Matt
I checked out my uncle's rental house that is having problems today - you should see the antique main vent on that thing. I am pretty sure it's clogged and causing problems.
Thanks and think about a trip to the Biltmore Estate during the holiday season. :)
Matt
0
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one pipe steam venting & missing radiators
Hello all! Great board here...
After doing a little reading because of cold radiators in some parts of our one-pipe steam system, I'm interested in improvment and have a couple of questions. I'm also fairly certain this issue is related to venting because I can take the vents off the cold radiators and they will heat up pretty quickly, if only for the first four of five fins. Before the questions though, I collected some info and put it and pictures here:
http://www.pbase.com/thewallacefamily/steam
1) I was going to replace the vents on the two main lines with Gortons and was wondering what the application between the #1 and #2 was with respect to 'short' and 'long' mains? My mains are 38' and 26' long from boiler to current vents, and then the returns. I 'think' the mains are 2.5"OD but they are covered with insulation and I can't find a place to measure (and didn't want to poke something through the insulation).
2) I was also going to replace all the radiator vents with Gortons, especially the larger ones upstairs which have a really hard time heating up, but some of the smaller radiators heat well with the Hoffmans. Is it 'really' important to match the vents with the same manufacturer to get the same relative flow?
3) Two of the radiators on the N loop have been removed, and we rarely use radiators S-3 and S-5 on the S loop - keep the valves closed and the doors to those rooms shut. Without doing a heat calc, would removal of operation of these 4 out of 10 radiators effectively oversize the boiler? I kinda thought it would and maybe we should open the S-3 and S-5 radiators to let the boiler operate a little more efficiently???
Thanks for the help. I also have an oil-fired one-pipe steam system that needs some bigger help, which a heating company is working on within the next few days. There is not a professional listed on this site around Western North Carolina and we only have one boiler-type company here and they are always VERY busy (have called over the course of 2 months and no answer and voice mail is always full...). Of course this is the busy time, but some of you folks need to move here!!!
Matt0 -
First, vent your mains
Those Hoffman 4A vents are pathetically small. The long main should get a Gorton #2, the shorter one should get a pair of Gorton #1 vents. All vents should be located on the mains they serve, not the dry returns (N main vent #2 should be removed and the opening plugged). This will get steam to the ends of the mains quickly and evenly.
Once this is done, you can determine which radiators need more venting. I bet you find the slower ones heat much better with the new main vents in place.
The Gorton #2 is the biggest vent made today. No other company- including Dole, Hoffman or Vent-Rite- makes anything like it. If you can't find Gortons in your area, call Ken Kunz at Gorton- 908-276-1323- tell him I sent you. He will see that you get them.
Instead of turning off the shutoff valves to S-3 and S-5, install adjustable vents such as the Hoffman #1A, Dole #1A or Vent-Rite #1 and adjust them to their minimum setting. Leave the shutoffs open. The reason for this is these old shutoffs invariably leak a bit which will allow a bit of steam to get in the rads. Once it has condensed, it won't be able to get back out, so the rads would fill with water and bang. But if the air can't get out, the steam can't get in, so these rooms will not get much heat. And you can reset the vents if you need to.
I've been known to do some traveling- if the companies you're using need a consultant, feel free to get in touch. Might even talk The Lovely Naoko into coming along.....
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"0 -
I was just about to recommend the same main venting, but Steamhead is the pro and beat me to it. Suggest you wait until you replace the main vents as that will change how the radiators heat; balance them after the change.0 -
Remodelling change
Greetings. I'm remodelling and trying to figure out
how to change the steam pipes to fit.
We have big old steam radiators, 1-pipe system.
There are 2 radiators in the Master BR 12'x21'.
Rad 1 is off, since it is next to where my wife's
bed is at the moment (I saw that this is a bad idea,
will research).The radiator 2 now provides enough heat.
I am going to put a master bath where the
currently cold radiator is, and put the beds
on the wall where the working rad is.
(The attached diagram is the new layout).
That would put the hot radiator at the heads
of the two beds. Close to my wife's bed - BAD.
That radiator is fed from a pipe in (below) the side
wall, i.e., 6' pipe under the floor.
I want to move the radiator.
I would like to break the elbow that is in the wall,
and put a minimal radiator (i.e., next to my bed.)
That would give me heat, and place my bed between
her and the radiator, so she will be cool (good).
I was thinking even as simple as a 3" diam pipe
like in NYC apartment bathrooms. The pipe is
the radiator. (Vented in the attic?)
If that's not enough heat, we could tee it
and have a pipe next to my feet and next to my head.
The first pipe is easy, the wall needs repairs anyway.
Is there a way to figure out how much heat such a
pipe would give? and/or the old radiator?
Also, the access to the Elbow is from the stairs behind
the wall. Can I expose the pipe below the elbow (20"),
to get a bit of heat on the stairs?
put some foiled insulation behind the pipe...
and then a grate set into the wall.
Or is there a minimal heat wall radiator I should
look at?
Thanks!0
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