Residential steam boiler low water & surging issues

Anthony Menafro

I'm sorry that I was so busy last year and couldn't fit you into my schedule. This job is an example of guys who think that it doesn't matter how you pipe steam. I hope that the other work that you needed done wasn't done in the same matter. Again, I'm terribly sorry that you were treated in this way.

Anthony Menafro

Bruce Rounsavill

Residential Steam boiler low water and surging issues

I have a utica boiler PEG225CDE which is 4 yrs old.
1) Is there any issue with using copper piping for the manifold piping? I have heard that this would void warranty or cause problems?
2) Unit was relocated last summer with some re-piping done and this year it is short cycling due to low water level. The water initially surges to high level and then drops to very low levels. I am getting lots of water hammer and bubbling sounds. The unit is shutting off due to low water levels. The water then returns to unit and it starts up again. I have read up on this issue from other sources and don't know if this is due to incorrect piping or to excessive oil in water. I flushed out system but did not have skimmed yet. Seems to be "siphoning"???

Please see photos attached.

The piping is done in all 2" copper. The return pipe and right side main takeoff pipe are connected together with T connection approx 20 inches above water level. It is then run up to manifold which is 30 inches above water level. I had a local plumber tell me that the return pipe on right side of unit should be connected at same height (30 inches) as manifold and not connected at lower level. He thought that re-piping this would solve issue. I was also told that must be done in threaded pipe and not copper.

I do not want to repipe it and spend much $$$$$ if I do not need to.

Thanks

clammy

wow

wow the guy who piped that not only knew nothing about steam but must have been not able to read also because this unit is not even close to manufactors specs.I would bring my portasaw and cut all that copper out and re pipe it in steel with a nice oversized drop header with a nice swing joint for expansion .Being the way it's piped i would also check your pressuretrol setting when there piped like that the guy usually leaves the presstrol at factory settting which doesn,t help .The cut in should be .5 and the cut out wheel at 1 that,s under the cover .If your plumber will not guarente that his work will correct your promblem check the find a pro listing on this site these guys will do you right .Do your self a favor and go the the boiler manafactors site or look at the instructions that came with theboiler and there should be a diagram showing the correct way to pipe it and may be show it to the guy who piped it after seeing the error of his ways will fix if not get a pro versed in steam who will do it in steel correctly .Maybe you should have your main and raditor vents changed after all that water hammer and wet steam production here's a re pipe i did recently no more copper heads peace clammy

blackoakbob_2

Nice work , Clammy....

Bruce, this is how it's suppose to look. There is a reason for this piping design. It's what makes steam work quietly, efficiently, and economically. Check out Dan's book selections and you will get straight forward answers to your questions. Best Regards.

Chris E_2

That Utica has a service tag on it for Gateway Plumbing

That Utica has a service tag on it for Gateway Pluming, They are in the find a professional section on this web site. You might want to call them see if they can fix this problem.