In fairness to all, we don't discuss pricing on the Wall. Thanks for your cooperation.
Hi Guys, hope all are having a good summer. I was wondering if I could benefit from your knowledge & experience? Sadly after 18 short years my Weil-McLain P-568 boiler has died from a massive hemorrhage. My September job just got moved up to July! Bonus: I was here when it happened and less than 16 gallons of water had to be sucked up.
No surprise there as I saw the leak and just wanted to get through the winter.
Anywho... I am going to install a Slant Fin EC-15 Eutectic. My questions are related to my existing installs. Reading through various postings I am seeing there are different opinions regarding how the hydronic system should be set up. While I'm sure everyone has valid reasons for their preferences I just want to say that what I have worked fine. In the 18 years this system was running bleeding's were done on few occasions; renovations to the house that replaced baseboard, failed indirect hot water maker, failed auto fill & that's about it. I've never had a problem with air entering the system after bleeding. The circulators are installed on the return side of the system.
My questions are as follows:
1. I have 2 Watts 1 inch, 2000 cast iron check valves with plugs installed on the vertical riser. They are servicing the 1st and 2nd floor heating zones. The gravity feed override I"m sure seized long ago besides I have a generator and always a spare circulator on the shelf so no worries there. They were there when I put the P-568 in and I'm going to assume that they were installed when the house was built in 1963; 50 years! My question is should I change them? Obviously there is going to be labor involved here, it looks like one of those jobs where I'll need 2 men and a boy to accomplish!
2. Same question & condition on the indirect loop except that check valve is a Bell & Gossett SA-3/4" installed in 1995 with the P-568.
3. The air scoop; same deal, change it or keep it? I suspect it's originally installed in 1963. The auto air vent was changed in 1995 and still works but is getting changed. The bladder tank is getting changed as I destroyed it removing the boiler. Additional info on this:
A. Bladder tank was installed directly under the air scoop. Looking into the tapping on the underside of the air scoop it appears that the splitting plate is intact.
B. Should I relocate the new bladder tank to a wall or hang it underneath as it was? It 's a head banger where it is and there was a lot of sediment in the port of the bladder tank.
C. If I relocate it does it matter if I mount the connection port on the top or bottom? Considering the sediment I found I'm thinking mount it port down and install a sweat Tee with a ball valve underneath to collect & occasionally purge the sediment.
4. The new bladder tank: How big should I get? If it matters the home is a 2 story & I have 150 feet of fin & tube baseboard and the new EC-15 has about 12 gallons of water.
Thank you all in advance for your time & knowledge.