In fairness to all, we don't discuss pricing on the Wall. Thanks for your cooperation.
Add a Danfoss ESBE Thermic valve to my FrankenBoiler?
I have a Weil McLain Gold 5 that ran about 10 years with an oil burner and then was converted about 6 years ago to a Carlin EZ-Gas running propane. The unit was installed when the house was new, but when I asked the builder to scrap the heat pump and install hot water baseboard instead, he neglected to get an actual boiler guy to do the work. So it was installed by a few AC guys that "always wanted to install a boiler...". I ended up buying a copy of Dan's book (still on the shelf) and getting the piping worked out so we were "pumping away" and I fixed the makeup water with my new knowledge about the "point of no pressure". It has been ok, but just. There are 6 htg zones, 4 of which are used regularly plus indirect DHW. I have DIY'ed this thing along the way with a Honeywell AQ control strapped to a Taco 6 place zone valve control. Now that I am taking a closer look, I am seriously wondering if the installer switched the Taco circs. There is a 010 on the 6 heating zones and a 011 on the DHW. In looking at the specs, this seems like it might be backwards and I question if the 010 moves the water fast enough, especially since the Honeywell reports as much as 50 deg delta T with only 2 zones open. So last year when I had some time I purchased a Danfoss ESBE Thermic valve and the thermostatic cartridge with the idea that I would create a loop to prevent water < 135 deg in the return. It's still on my shelf because the circ question is nagging at me and I'm wondering if it's worth shutting it down and switching the circs first. The house is about 5,000 sq ft and I did a heat loss/gain calc some years ago which I probably can find if the info is helpful. I underfire the EZ-Gas by one size since a friend/HVAC guy thinks the 185,000 net IBR is too big. I have read so many thorough and well thought out replies on this site so I'd love to hear what you pros think.