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can 007-F5 be replaced with 007-F5-IFC?

heatingFunheatingFun Member Posts: 84
I have a one zone hot water heating system with one 007-F5 circulator and there is no flow check valve installed for that zone. I am planning added another two zones. Then the existing loop needs a flow check valve. I am thinking replace that existing 007-F5 circulator with a 007-F5-IFC circulator to avoid adding a flow check valve in the existing zone. The new zones will use 007-F5-IFC circulators.

My question is do these two circulators have the same installation sizes?


  • icesailoricesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    Flow Checks

    If you add zones and use all zone valves, you don't have to add any new circulators and you don't need flow checks or IFC pumps.
  • Bob BonaBob Bona Member Posts: 2,081
    same size flange to flange

  • heatingFunheatingFun Member Posts: 84
    same circulator to feed 3 zones?

    That will be a good alternative. How can I know if the existing circulator is still good to drive three zones? Otherwise I will waste that circulator anyway.
  • SWEISWEI Member Posts: 7,356
    CIrculator sizing

    comes from knowing each zone's head and flow requirements.  The 007 has a relatively flat curve, which will help.  Once you add zone valves, if you do replace it, consider a ∆P or ∆T ECM circulator instead.
  • icesailoricesailor Member Posts: 7,265

    In my experience, the 007 will do the job. Every house I ever built for myself, and all the heating jobs I did, I always used 007's with zone valves until they came out with ECM's. Every job I ever did had at least three ZV's and my own homes usually had 6 ZV's. No one ever complained about being cold.

    011's are the cats tail for overcoming systems with bad piping and you need to overcome high resistance. Like 900' runs of  1/2" radiant PEX under floors.

    If you want to get technical and prove to yourself whether it will theoretically work, if the system is piped with a purge on the return with a drain valve and any drains on the supply, remove the drains, buy two cheap 1/4" tridicators with short stems, and install them. Turn on the system. Look at the Delta T, the differential of the water going into the system and the water coming back. Also, note the resting water pressure when the circulator isn't running. It should be the same as the boiler/system pressure. Start the circulator. Start the system. Start ALL zones. Read what the pressure is on the supply side and the differential pressure on the return side. Multiply that by 2.31 and it will give you the head pressure. Look on a flow chart to see where the curve intersects the two numbers. Chances are good, that the circulator is fine.

    If it is, and you still want to change things and spend money, buy a ECM circulator for the zone valve pump.

    Also, if you are fortunate enough to have drain openings on either side of the circulator (close by), lucky you. You will get a very accurate reading.

    The Marines in WW ll in the Pacific used hand grenades by the case. That's close enough for Marine Combat.

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