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Honeywell Relay Replacement

BT123BT123 Member Posts: 11

Anyone know if I can replace a Honeywell R8184D with an R 8184G? I have a hydronic heating system and use this with an Aquastat Type8 Relay. It fires the furnace when a call for heat is initiated both throws the red reset switch sporadically.



  • SteamheadSteamhead Member Posts: 11,321
    edited December 2013
    I'd use a GeniSys 7505A

    and jump the thermostat terminals. Its 15-sec trial for ignition is much safer then the R8184G or D's 45-second trial. Also, it turns off the ignition when the burner is running, saving electricity and electrode wear.
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    "Reducing our country's energy consumption, one system at a time"
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
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  • BT123BT123 Member Posts: 11
    Thermostat jump

    Can you explain jumping the thermostat terminals?

  • Paul48Paul48 Member Posts: 4,228

    It's doing exactly what it's suppose to do.Check and clean the cad cell per the instructions. Troubleshooting is A-B-C, starting with the simplest first.
  • BT123BT123 Member Posts: 11
    Cad Cell

    Yep...Ive inspected the cad cell for cracks etc...and cleaned the lens. It "looks" fine to me...maybe its internal? Im replacing the cad tomorrow first, then if that doesnt fix it, will move to the controller.

    Thanks for the advice-
  • earl burnermannearl burnermann Member Posts: 126
    check cad cell eye ohms.

    remove the cad cell eye leads  from the ff terminals and check how many ohms the eye is seeing. If its over 1600 then it is the eye or something obstructing the eye's view.
    If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy!
  • BT123BT123 Member Posts: 11
    I appreciate

    the advice. Ill give the ohms test a try.
  • icesailoricesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    Read Oil Forum:

    Read what I posted in the Oil Forum before you go out and spend a lot of money.

    But do as you will.
  • icesailoricesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    Checking Cad Cells:

    Take the two yellow wires off the "F-F terminals on the 8184G and wire nut them to the leads of a multi-tester set on the Ohm Scale Have the transformer back. Ambient light should give you a reading. Put your finger over the eye. It should be an open circuit. Shine a light against the eye. It should go way up. If it doesn't, the eye and assembly could be bad. Is the plug part of the "eye" tight? I've changed more cad cell assemblies than I ever changed eyes.

    Check for carbon buildup on the retention ring before you get nuts buying parts.
  • Paul48Paul48 Member Posts: 4,228

    Are you having that boiler properly serviced, every year?
  • BT123BT123 Member Posts: 11
    The last time

    I had it serviced was two winters ago.
  • wwww Member Posts: 192
    I had to replace my honeywell

    I replaced my honeywell on my Beckett AF oil burner with the 4009 series 45 second delay..I went thru all the tests with ohms for the sensor and also all the tests for the primary relay..and all showed good. I had an intermittent problem internally with the primary.

    I thought I had a loose wire somewhere and tested all the wiring at all the junction boxes with the voltmeter. When I moved the primary relay around..on the side..laying an worked and then went on and off..etc.. 

    Just remember this. I got prices for that relay that varied alot. The highest was $175..the next was $99 at home depot..the next was $77 at a local plumbing supply...the next was $68 at a burner supply...and finally the price I paid...$52 at a plumbing supply. That's a big range.

    Everything in the instructions and PDF's included with new realay are there to show how to test the unit for all safety tests.

    I am not a parts replacer either. I test everything first and find information on how to do it. My analysis in this case was correct and now the system problem caused by the bad primary relay has been corrected. I also was pointed in the right direction by following this site as well.
  • Paul48Paul48 Member Posts: 4,228
    Not Good

    It's an oil burner. It needs to be serviced annually. Soot build-up kills heat transfer, and that wastes your money. The heat just goes up the chimney. There are configurations of oil filters that prevent crap from getting to the burner, which I'm sure are not on your boiler. The burner is probably gummed up with nasty stuff (technical term), at this point. Have it serviced, and watch the amount of crap that gets cleaned out of the boiler.
  • BT123BT123 Member Posts: 11

    Thanks for the info....I did a visual inspection of the inside of the burner and it doesnt seem too bad...Im sure theres all sorts of build-up in the lines and such though. Im pretty you think its something I can do myself?

    Thanks again for the advice

  • Paul48Paul48 Member Posts: 4,228

    I wouldn't play with the burner itself. Have a pro clean it, and set it up with a digital combustion analyzer. Watch what he does, and you make the call as to what you'd feel comfortable doing yourself.
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