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NOS Sarco
Found a box of new trap repair parts during a demolition today. What museum should they go into?
Tommi68
1
Re: Repeated Air in Fuel/Fuel Line
We had a flame out and latchup again last night. I know how to bleed/prime pump at this point, but I figured I paid for a service contract, so I will make them do it.
Tech seemed to find oil on the side of the pump and took it apart, cleaned, put in new gasket. Re-seated all of the plugs on the pump. Redid all the fittings between the pump and the filter. Basically all the things told the company that need to be done. Held overnight with no issue. I turned it all off so system would sit idle for several hours. Time will tell...
Tech seemed to find oil on the side of the pump and took it apart, cleaned, put in new gasket. Re-seated all of the plugs on the pump. Redid all the fittings between the pump and the filter. Basically all the things told the company that need to be done. Held overnight with no issue. I turned it all off so system would sit idle for several hours. Time will tell...
holocron
2
Re: AO smith ECC code
Found this forum searching for ECC code on my State hybrid water heater. We've had it not even 2 years and it's throwing the code.
It's only 2 of us in the house, so I've only ever ran the unit in Efficiency (heat-pump only) mode and it's always been more than sufficient, only running a little bit each day as needed, even through two winters now. I was quite satisfied because it generally was saving us around $50/mo on our electric bill from the 10yo electric water heater it replaced. It sits in an unfinished utility room in an otherwise finished basement that never gets below maybe 56 or 57 degrees and has plenty of airflow.
About a month ago, noticed shower was definitely not warm enough. I let it go 3 days to confirm it wasn't a fluke. Then I power-cycled the unit and cleaned the air filter, (which had been recently cleaned, but anyway,) and finally switched to electric-only, which worked fine. Made an appointment 4 weeks out for plumber who installed it to come check it out. While waiting for the appt. I played around switching between modes to try to learn more. After a few days I noticed water leaking out from underneath. Took quite a few days to finally find the leak at the condensate discharge fitting. Examining it, I saw the white elbow fitting was 2 or 3 threads from being seated all the way. I gave it a twist with very little resistance and the bottom half of the black plastic threaded joint (part of the 1-piece molded condensate drip pan) snapped off in my hand. Called my plumber back to let them know and they said they've seen that failure on several of these units after about 2 years. Meanwhile, I continued examining and realized my external discharge pump wasn't running. I found that the end of the discharge tubing line into the pump reservoir was too long and sitting completely submerged, so that gunk had built up, completely blocking the line. I cleaned it and shortened it appropriately and it worked fine. When the plumber finally came to check it out, he decided it seemed like the clogged discharge line was likely the culprit for the initial ineffective heating. To fix the cracked thread fitting, he simply inserted a slightly narrower gauge PVC pipe directly into the hole and sealed it well all around with silicone, bypassing the threaded coupling entirely. Everything seemed fixed, so we put it back in Efficiency mode. Immediately after he left, I noticed the compressor was running constantly. I power-cycled the unit and it came back with Error HPO, claiming either water temp or ambient air temp was too low, which made no sense. So I power-cycled again and this time it threw ECC. I switched to Electric-only mode and it was fine. Called AO Smith and they claimed the compressor is bad and offered an RMA to replace the entire unit but won't pay the labor. I definitely complained to no avail, and of course they mentioned never hearing of such failures. Clearly they don't know how the internet works. And now, it's not throwing the error codes any longer, but it is still running constantly if left in heat-pump only mode. Electric mode still works fine if I wanted to leave it like that, but I'd really miss that $50/mo savings!
The air blowing out of the fan feels basically room temp to the touch, so I suppose it makes sense that something in the compressor system is bad, but the compressor itself seems to be functioning just fine, if constantly, and is more than able to keep the water hot. The not-cold air blowing out of the fan might indicate a coolant leak, I suppose? I can't imagine what the plumber may have done in simply sealing that PVC pipe into the discharge line that could have caused a coolant leak. It's certainly the case that the leak or whatever else is causing the heat-pump system to fail could have started before the plumber came and it's only just a coincidence that it finally failed enough to throw error codes only just after he left. But is there any other likely answers?
I suppose given the $1300 price differential over a plain electric model, I've probably just about broken even in two years. But if I have to throw a big service charge on the cost of the hybrid model every two years, suddenly it becomes much more expensive after all! I was really looking forward to saving upwards of $5K over the life of the unit, not $5K MORE than the electric would have cost me! I don't know how the people at AO Smith sleep at night.
It's only 2 of us in the house, so I've only ever ran the unit in Efficiency (heat-pump only) mode and it's always been more than sufficient, only running a little bit each day as needed, even through two winters now. I was quite satisfied because it generally was saving us around $50/mo on our electric bill from the 10yo electric water heater it replaced. It sits in an unfinished utility room in an otherwise finished basement that never gets below maybe 56 or 57 degrees and has plenty of airflow.
About a month ago, noticed shower was definitely not warm enough. I let it go 3 days to confirm it wasn't a fluke. Then I power-cycled the unit and cleaned the air filter, (which had been recently cleaned, but anyway,) and finally switched to electric-only, which worked fine. Made an appointment 4 weeks out for plumber who installed it to come check it out. While waiting for the appt. I played around switching between modes to try to learn more. After a few days I noticed water leaking out from underneath. Took quite a few days to finally find the leak at the condensate discharge fitting. Examining it, I saw the white elbow fitting was 2 or 3 threads from being seated all the way. I gave it a twist with very little resistance and the bottom half of the black plastic threaded joint (part of the 1-piece molded condensate drip pan) snapped off in my hand. Called my plumber back to let them know and they said they've seen that failure on several of these units after about 2 years. Meanwhile, I continued examining and realized my external discharge pump wasn't running. I found that the end of the discharge tubing line into the pump reservoir was too long and sitting completely submerged, so that gunk had built up, completely blocking the line. I cleaned it and shortened it appropriately and it worked fine. When the plumber finally came to check it out, he decided it seemed like the clogged discharge line was likely the culprit for the initial ineffective heating. To fix the cracked thread fitting, he simply inserted a slightly narrower gauge PVC pipe directly into the hole and sealed it well all around with silicone, bypassing the threaded coupling entirely. Everything seemed fixed, so we put it back in Efficiency mode. Immediately after he left, I noticed the compressor was running constantly. I power-cycled the unit and it came back with Error HPO, claiming either water temp or ambient air temp was too low, which made no sense. So I power-cycled again and this time it threw ECC. I switched to Electric-only mode and it was fine. Called AO Smith and they claimed the compressor is bad and offered an RMA to replace the entire unit but won't pay the labor. I definitely complained to no avail, and of course they mentioned never hearing of such failures. Clearly they don't know how the internet works. And now, it's not throwing the error codes any longer, but it is still running constantly if left in heat-pump only mode. Electric mode still works fine if I wanted to leave it like that, but I'd really miss that $50/mo savings!
The air blowing out of the fan feels basically room temp to the touch, so I suppose it makes sense that something in the compressor system is bad, but the compressor itself seems to be functioning just fine, if constantly, and is more than able to keep the water hot. The not-cold air blowing out of the fan might indicate a coolant leak, I suppose? I can't imagine what the plumber may have done in simply sealing that PVC pipe into the discharge line that could have caused a coolant leak. It's certainly the case that the leak or whatever else is causing the heat-pump system to fail could have started before the plumber came and it's only just a coincidence that it finally failed enough to throw error codes only just after he left. But is there any other likely answers?
I suppose given the $1300 price differential over a plain electric model, I've probably just about broken even in two years. But if I have to throw a big service charge on the cost of the hybrid model every two years, suddenly it becomes much more expensive after all! I was really looking forward to saving upwards of $5K over the life of the unit, not $5K MORE than the electric would have cost me! I don't know how the people at AO Smith sleep at night.
kjdiehl
1
Re: Are there seriously no leveling shims I can just buy?
If you want to buy, not make... go to McMaster.com and start looking at aluminum discs. You can usually find aluminum or other metals cut in various diameters and thicknesses. Square, Rectangles, Circles, etc.
Just an example. Scroll to the bottom.
https://mcmaster.com/products/discs/multipurpose-6061-aluminum-rods-and-discs-7/
Just an example. Scroll to the bottom.
https://mcmaster.com/products/discs/multipurpose-6061-aluminum-rods-and-discs-7/
Re: Repair Stadler Pex size issue
What brand of manifold, Stadler I assume? Where are you trying to make a connection?
Stadler tubing is an odd id size. When I replaced Stadler manifolds with Caleffi manifolds with Stadler tubing, I had to make up the difference in the size between Stadler pex and Caleffi fittings. I like the Caleffi olive connectors, but they have a id tube range for the pex. Stadler tubing was outside of this range, too large an id. I bought EPDM o-rings that made up the difference and put them on the Caleffi fittings after removing the Caleffi o-rings. Worked just fine.
Stadler tubing is an odd id size. When I replaced Stadler manifolds with Caleffi manifolds with Stadler tubing, I had to make up the difference in the size between Stadler pex and Caleffi fittings. I like the Caleffi olive connectors, but they have a id tube range for the pex. Stadler tubing was outside of this range, too large an id. I bought EPDM o-rings that made up the difference and put them on the Caleffi fittings after removing the Caleffi o-rings. Worked just fine.
Re: Added Vents, Lost Heat?
I like the type of hangers that use threaded rod but it isn't my area of expertise. Make sure the joists are level if you're measuring off of them, i'm sure they won't be. a string or water level could help measure the pitch
mattmia2
1
Re: 1927 boiler piping
Wait, what? What requires a tire pump to increase fill pressure? The expansion tank, once drained and filled with the proper air pressure -- same as the system cold -- should never need to be pumped up. Leave it alone. If there is a pressure reducing valve on the makeup water feed,, that may need adjusting.
Re: Compression tank loop
Can't thank you enough, jesmed1. Excellent info, reference links and guidance. Found ATF12 on ebay. And will add shut off valve too, makes perfect sense to be able to isolate tank side for the repair. I now have a plan of action, with confidence! Will sleep tonight knowing I got this nailed when the parts arrive. Thanks again!!
Re: Need help with boiler and expansion tank pressure
I believe the zone valves on at least the feed side are working they were cool and after i bled the lines the once boiler kicked in and started making hot water again then you could slowly feel the lines heating up and the copper pipes them selves were to hot too hold your hand on
Re: Dear Reader
All I can do is agree w posts . Who knows what would have happen to first all the old steam systems that where and are in states of malfunction and disrepair with out the words you wrote and uncovered helping us all . . And let’s not forget pumping away ,you single handed changed the face of hydronics by explaining why and where the pump should go forever changing the industry and in my eyes saving fuel by the proper location of a silly little wet rotor pump totally amazing . Not that relocating was difficult but breaking a habit that was going on for decades ,truely a amazing accomplishment ,personally I was a push over but it is hard to change the old timers ( which I’m getting close ) but after 1 or 2 jobs there usually sold and as time goes on every one that I suggested new pump location and did they where amazed and started moving the pump to the supply ,who would have ever thought one silly book could change a whole industry . Aside from teaching us some math along the way you made us all smarter . Thank you
You also w that math taught us all about the magic of a tee and what goes come out , you made me a early p/s guru it really wasn’t that hard you gave us the math to figure it all out . Again thanks buddy
Not many including clergy ,politicians ,parole officers , motivational speakers and scientist could have had that large a impact on such a group of misfits as you have ( speaking for myself now )
You may never realize or get all the thanks and Accolade’s that you deserve rightfully but with your wit and non mechanical way of helping us wrap our minds around stuff that was not written for our kind has ,is and will be never discounted as time passes ,it will become a ancient text of knowledge for all who wish to peer and learn .
That old dan saying what goes into a tee comes out of a tee well here we go what goes out of a life in your case has been more then put in and the return to that tee is all thanks and place you in each and every life you have touched by giving the gift of knowledge accessible to all , simply amazing .
Enjoy the rewards of your labors and know that you have single handily helped thousands
Peace and good luck clammy
You also w that math taught us all about the magic of a tee and what goes come out , you made me a early p/s guru it really wasn’t that hard you gave us the math to figure it all out . Again thanks buddy
Not many including clergy ,politicians ,parole officers , motivational speakers and scientist could have had that large a impact on such a group of misfits as you have ( speaking for myself now )
You may never realize or get all the thanks and Accolade’s that you deserve rightfully but with your wit and non mechanical way of helping us wrap our minds around stuff that was not written for our kind has ,is and will be never discounted as time passes ,it will become a ancient text of knowledge for all who wish to peer and learn .
That old dan saying what goes into a tee comes out of a tee well here we go what goes out of a life in your case has been more then put in and the return to that tee is all thanks and place you in each and every life you have touched by giving the gift of knowledge accessible to all , simply amazing .
Enjoy the rewards of your labors and know that you have single handily helped thousands
Peace and good luck clammy
clammy
3