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Re: Possible DIY boiler replacement questions
To really close out this thread…
After an entire winter running with the newly replaced heat exchanger and swapping parts to make this boiler a 75kBTU I can say that this was a success. No issues since I did the work and I have used about 13% less gas in terms of Therms/HDD day than last year and even though it was a mild winter we did have 1 week that was below 10 degrees with a couple overnights down to the design temp. The boiler easily kept up on the coldest nights while still not running continually, which was expected as my calculations said I was still oversized.
ZackR
5
Re: Tim McElwain shutting down training center - equipment available for free
@Tim McElwain, thank you for your dedication to teaching and for all you've done to advance industry education throughout your career.
Re: Tim McElwain shutting down training center - equipment available for free
By the way I may have a little more time to spend on the Wall!
Re: Your nightmare...
I cannot top these stories and I am happy to admit that. That being said, I think some will understand why we have always concentrated on heating. Yes, I have come home covered in black soot from head to toe (including eyes and nose). Yes, I have come home smelling like I was inside the Exxon refinery for days after being covered in #4 or #6 bunker C oil. Yes, I have come home wreaking of perfume after working in a fragrance factory for the day.
Many years ago I was taught the rules to be a plumber, I will mention them again for the uninformed. "Poop" flows downhill, don't bite your fingernails, and pay day is on Friday. The main reason I never became a plumber is, I bite my nails!
Many years ago I was taught the rules to be a plumber, I will mention them again for the uninformed. "Poop" flows downhill, don't bite your fingernails, and pay day is on Friday. The main reason I never became a plumber is, I bite my nails!
Re: Vintage 1909 Gravity Hot Water Heating System
@Steamhead “Most are ornate Rococos..”
The first one is a Standard Radiator Mfg Co out of Buffalo, NY and the other you mentioned (my dining room and favorite radiator) is Erie Radiator by the Jarecki Manufacturing Co out of Erie, PA.
The first one is a Standard Radiator Mfg Co out of Buffalo, NY and the other you mentioned (my dining room and favorite radiator) is Erie Radiator by the Jarecki Manufacturing Co out of Erie, PA.
Unfortunately no name on the gas burner. But that baby purrs along nicely.
Re: New York gas piping
My own experience with this is as follows:
Years ago, what was basically available to us was only Hercules white Teflon paste, gray Pipe Dope, and wick. We used gray pipe dope on nearly everything but if liquid were running through the pipe then we'd use wick first and brush dope or teflon over it.
The theory was always that if water reached the wick, it would expand and seal the threads, so it was a water application. Never on gas.
Years later, Teflon tape became very popular and it could be used on nearly every non-industrial-level application for gas, water, or anything else for that matter.
When I took my Master Plumber's exam we weren't allowed to use anything at all on the threads when making them up. I believe it was about 30 joints. The exam had us assembling the black pipe joints and fittings, filling the assembly with 100 PSI of air and submerging it in a big tub of water to see if it leaked (instant failure). We were told repeatedly by our course instructors when taking the exam prep class that all of the above products (teflon paste, tape, pipe dope) are nothing but lubricants that help you make the joint tighter. Only the black and terrible product Permatex was a sealant, which was obvious because it would dry and cure and be a nightmare to get apart later on.
So, I've gone my whole professional career not making a big deal about how to dress threads since it's absolutely the threads themselves that hold back the contents of the pipe.
I've read this thread and asked several Master Plumbers in my association about the claims presented and no one has heard anything about it.
Codes change suddenly and without much notification but my belief as of this moment is that pipe dope is still absolutely allowed on gas pipe in NYC.
Years ago, what was basically available to us was only Hercules white Teflon paste, gray Pipe Dope, and wick. We used gray pipe dope on nearly everything but if liquid were running through the pipe then we'd use wick first and brush dope or teflon over it.
The theory was always that if water reached the wick, it would expand and seal the threads, so it was a water application. Never on gas.
Years later, Teflon tape became very popular and it could be used on nearly every non-industrial-level application for gas, water, or anything else for that matter.
When I took my Master Plumber's exam we weren't allowed to use anything at all on the threads when making them up. I believe it was about 30 joints. The exam had us assembling the black pipe joints and fittings, filling the assembly with 100 PSI of air and submerging it in a big tub of water to see if it leaked (instant failure). We were told repeatedly by our course instructors when taking the exam prep class that all of the above products (teflon paste, tape, pipe dope) are nothing but lubricants that help you make the joint tighter. Only the black and terrible product Permatex was a sealant, which was obvious because it would dry and cure and be a nightmare to get apart later on.
So, I've gone my whole professional career not making a big deal about how to dress threads since it's absolutely the threads themselves that hold back the contents of the pipe.
I've read this thread and asked several Master Plumbers in my association about the claims presented and no one has heard anything about it.
Codes change suddenly and without much notification but my belief as of this moment is that pipe dope is still absolutely allowed on gas pipe in NYC.
JohnNY
8
Re: Do old radiators lose efficiency?
Good point @Mustangman, but the radiator is not the inefficient thing. The crud in the piping was the “inefficient thing”. So a replacement radiator with the cruddy pipe would still have a problem heating the room. Hence my Question “After you replace that expensive part, What will you check next?
However if that inspector IS correct, my information may be flawed. Since I am in my 60s that would by default make my repair ideas inefficient. But I still think my ideas would be better than @Jamie Hall 's advise, he is way older than me!
However if that inspector IS correct, my information may be flawed. Since I am in my 60s that would by default make my repair ideas inefficient. But I still think my ideas would be better than @Jamie Hall 's advise, he is way older than me!
Vintage 1909 Gravity Hot Water Heating System
Hello everyone,
I feel like I’m with good company here and wanted to share photos of my home’s original gravity hot water system which still works like a charm. My home is a Colonial Revival built in 1909 and located in Michigan, USA. I have a long time interest in HVAC. I always find the subject of heating and cooling a building fascinating.
I fell in love with this home on the walkthrough, especially when I saw the cast iron radiators and the old boiler. The inspection report came back decent and no issues found with the heating system. At the time I had no idea about “Gravity Systems” but watching Dan’s videos on the HH YouTube and reading books I found on archive.org (including Dan's), I became versed on the topic. I LOVE THIS SYSTEM and the simplicity of it all.
I am just amazed at the engineering the old timers put into designing and installing these systems. And here we are 115 years later and this system works without fail in my home. No pumps, pure physics. I have recently spent time repainting all the components of the system to give them a nice fresh update.
I have all my original cleaning tools for my boiler and I clean and maintain the heating plant myself. It helps I have the original sales brochure and care maintenance book issued by American Radiator Company. 😃 (I have uploaded both to archive.org)
Featured in my gravity system:
-1937 Ideal Boiler No.7 by American Radiator Company.
*Tested in at 74% efficient
* No CO leaks
* No rust on cast iron sections
* Excellent draft
* Clean blue flame when operating
* Flue temps 375°-400°
* No crazy expensive heating bills (home is well insulated, and programmable thermostat)
-Honeywell Heat Generator
*Works exactly how Dan explained in his video and the books out there. I’m amazed how even my home heats. Within 20 minutes of the boiler coming on I can touch every radiator and feel some warmth.
- 11 Cast Iron radiators and 1 baseboard
* Most are ornate Rococos by American Radiator Company
-Attic expansion tank
* This is also how the system gets filled with water *see pic*.
Asbestos abatement done on the pipes by previous owner. Wrapped in foam and duct tape.
Thank you all, the posts here are so helpful. I’ve never had to post because I could find my answers in search.
Enjoy the pics! Feel free to go over to my YouTube (@theadamsestate1909 for a boiler and radiator tour)
I feel like I’m with good company here and wanted to share photos of my home’s original gravity hot water system which still works like a charm. My home is a Colonial Revival built in 1909 and located in Michigan, USA. I have a long time interest in HVAC. I always find the subject of heating and cooling a building fascinating.
I fell in love with this home on the walkthrough, especially when I saw the cast iron radiators and the old boiler. The inspection report came back decent and no issues found with the heating system. At the time I had no idea about “Gravity Systems” but watching Dan’s videos on the HH YouTube and reading books I found on archive.org (including Dan's), I became versed on the topic. I LOVE THIS SYSTEM and the simplicity of it all.
I am just amazed at the engineering the old timers put into designing and installing these systems. And here we are 115 years later and this system works without fail in my home. No pumps, pure physics. I have recently spent time repainting all the components of the system to give them a nice fresh update.
I have all my original cleaning tools for my boiler and I clean and maintain the heating plant myself. It helps I have the original sales brochure and care maintenance book issued by American Radiator Company. 😃 (I have uploaded both to archive.org)
Featured in my gravity system:
-1937 Ideal Boiler No.7 by American Radiator Company.
*Tested in at 74% efficient
* No CO leaks
* No rust on cast iron sections
* Excellent draft
* Clean blue flame when operating
* Flue temps 375°-400°
* No crazy expensive heating bills (home is well insulated, and programmable thermostat)
-Honeywell Heat Generator
*Works exactly how Dan explained in his video and the books out there. I’m amazed how even my home heats. Within 20 minutes of the boiler coming on I can touch every radiator and feel some warmth.
- 11 Cast Iron radiators and 1 baseboard
* Most are ornate Rococos by American Radiator Company
-Attic expansion tank
* This is also how the system gets filled with water *see pic*.
Asbestos abatement done on the pipes by previous owner. Wrapped in foam and duct tape.
Thank you all, the posts here are so helpful. I’ve never had to post because I could find my answers in search.
Enjoy the pics! Feel free to go over to my YouTube (@theadamsestate1909 for a boiler and radiator tour)