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Re: Radiator PINGING is Driving me Crazy! Please help so I can sleep!
you have 2 pipe rads, steam in one side, condensate drains out the lower other end, rad should pitch to the drain,
that "tilts slightly toward the intake valve..." is for 1 pipe rads, steam enters, and condensate leaves, though the single pipe,
rad still need to pitch to its drain, in the 1 pipe case, the supply valve is the drain also.
that "tilts slightly toward the intake valve..." is for 1 pipe rads, steam enters, and condensate leaves, though the single pipe,
rad still need to pitch to its drain, in the 1 pipe case, the supply valve is the drain also.
neilc
1
Re: Radiator PINGING is Driving me Crazy! Please help so I can sleep!
I would call that water hammer. When steam hits a pool of water, the water either flashes to steam, expanding by 1700 times, or the steam condenses shrinking by that factor and causes a vacuum that has more steam rush in.
Your supply pipe comes out of the wall behind the rad, it looks to go horizontal towards the supply valve before going vertical.
There is a chance that the supply end of the rad has settled and the horizontal pipe is running downhill a little. You could try to raise that end of the rad 1/4" at a time to get that pipe to drain back into the wall, (assuming it has lost it's pitch).
You need a lever and fulcrum to raise the rad. You can put checkers or large washers under the feet.
Don't move too much at a time as you are trying to rotate old pipe threads.
Your supply pipe comes out of the wall behind the rad, it looks to go horizontal towards the supply valve before going vertical.
There is a chance that the supply end of the rad has settled and the horizontal pipe is running downhill a little. You could try to raise that end of the rad 1/4" at a time to get that pipe to drain back into the wall, (assuming it has lost it's pitch).
You need a lever and fulcrum to raise the rad. You can put checkers or large washers under the feet.
Don't move too much at a time as you are trying to rotate old pipe threads.
JUGHNE
1
Re: My bestest wrenches
My absolute favorite wrench is a Ridgid 14" steel offset wrench. Used that more than anything.
I am retired and don't need it........but no one can have it!
When I die it's going in the box with me along with the head of my over 52 year old "Bendfield" 1/2" EMT bender.
So there.
I am retired and don't need it........but no one can have it!
When I die it's going in the box with me along with the head of my over 52 year old "Bendfield" 1/2" EMT bender.
So there.
Re: Steam pressure noise from steam riser pipe
@mtordjman, I've merged your duplicate discussions into one here to prevent confusion. Thanks!
Re: My bestest wrenches
I am partial to the S-2 Ridgid compound wrench.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odLe_3fVpq0&t=
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odLe_3fVpq0&t=
Gordo
4
Re: New Heat Pump with Oil Furnace Losing Prime ONLY after outside air temp goes below 32
Found that clear oil line video
Water in fuel line. The oil will not push the water out of the way at low flow rate of 1.20 GPH or less. this burner operates at .60 GPH Watch this 3/8" clear tube with a trap. It illustrates that the oil will migrate thru the water in a very thin stream leaving the water to stay in the fuel line. Pay attention at start up to see the initial oil movement and how gravity keeps the heavier water in place.https://drive.google.com/file/d/1udPL8PNrhM50vqwqDTIVQcUMx7leUKF1/view?ts=63ec2cfb
let me know if the video link does not work or not available
Re: My bestest wrenches
Hi, One good thing the Parmlee wrench does is to not make pipe go out of round when you need to use force, so it's good for any stubborn threaded pipe.
Yours, Larry
Yours, Larry
Re: Thoughts On "Solar Water Heating: A Comprehensive Guide..." by Ramlow & Nusz
Tha's it! Thank you! Bill was a great guy.
Re: need more heat
I had a boiler in the garage that worked well for 15 years. Last year three boiler guys could not fix it. The last one said too much sediment baked in the Botton of the boiler. I decided to instal a new boiler, moving it to the basement.How much additional piping was added to make this move?
The old system had two Taco 007-F5 circulators. The new one was installed with only one of the Taco 007-F5s. What controlled the second circulator on the old boiler?
Seven thermostats are replaced with one.What did the other 6thermostats operate? Were there zone valves involved?
We are heating 6 rooms. Two rooms get properly heated.How are these connected to the boiler? are they the first 2 rooms on a single loop?
Four of the rooms only reach to within 15-20 degrees of the needed temperature.Were these rooms just added to the end of the first two rooms in a series loop? That will not work.
I have about 120 feet of 3/4 inch copper The radiators are about 160 feet long.You will find the reason for your problem in this book on page 4. https://documentlibrary.xylemappliedwater.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2020/01/FH-Z100B-BG-Zoning-Made-Easy-2.pdf
I need help. Thank you.
Once you read the first 6 pages of this book, you will be able to answer these test questions:
Once you can answer these questions you will have the answer to your question.
My question to you is: Who installed the new boiler? If the installer was a professional, then they need to read the book and answer the questions.
Re: Thoughts On "Solar Water Heating: A Comprehensive Guide..." by Ramlow & Nusz
Hello @desert_sasquatch , I'd like to throw this into the mix, to help confuse things ... of course. https://www.larryweingarten.com/blog/another-solar-myth-bites-the-dust
Yours, Larry
Yours, Larry