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Re: Weil McLain CG Boiler wont start after relay replacement
The relay you call a 90340 was copied from a Honeywell R8222D1014 many many years ago.
That relay can come in several configurations. The R8222D1014 for example is the one that has the greatest amount of capabilities. It has a 24 VAC coil that the thermostat can operate, then there are 6 other terminals setup as a DPDT relay.
the R8222U1006 is a SPDT relay with only 3 additional terminals
The R8222U1079 is a DPST relay that has only 4 additional terminals that work as two switches, each with one set of NO contacts. And no NC contacts. That relay also comes in the R4222 variety. It looks the same but the coil is line voltage 120 VAC or 230 VAC. So I would look closely at the plug-in terminals of each relay you received and compare it to the original relay
Notice the green arrows are pointing to terminal pins that are missing
I have a feeling that you have a relay that has a different set of contacts than the original one you removed from the boiler. Look at the pins that are on the old relay and the new relay. I also feel that there may be a holding circuit that was inadvertently made with some type of additional wiring by a previous technician. At some point something changed that initiated the holding circuit.
Is it possible that the problem started soon after you upgraded to a new thermostat or some other event?
You may have had an overheating issue that melted some insulation off of a thermostat wire inside the boiler jacket that is completing a holding circuit that is not supposed to be there. A close inspection of all the low voltage wires inside the boiler front door may reveal the problem.
That relay can come in several configurations. The R8222D1014 for example is the one that has the greatest amount of capabilities. It has a 24 VAC coil that the thermostat can operate, then there are 6 other terminals setup as a DPDT relay.
the R8222U1006 is a SPDT relay with only 3 additional terminals
The R8222U1079 is a DPST relay that has only 4 additional terminals that work as two switches, each with one set of NO contacts. And no NC contacts. That relay also comes in the R4222 variety. It looks the same but the coil is line voltage 120 VAC or 230 VAC. So I would look closely at the plug-in terminals of each relay you received and compare it to the original relay
Notice the green arrows are pointing to terminal pins that are missing
I have a feeling that you have a relay that has a different set of contacts than the original one you removed from the boiler. Look at the pins that are on the old relay and the new relay. I also feel that there may be a holding circuit that was inadvertently made with some type of additional wiring by a previous technician. At some point something changed that initiated the holding circuit.
Is it possible that the problem started soon after you upgraded to a new thermostat or some other event?
OR
You may have had an overheating issue that melted some insulation off of a thermostat wire inside the boiler jacket that is completing a holding circuit that is not supposed to be there. A close inspection of all the low voltage wires inside the boiler front door may reveal the problem.
Re: gas steam boiler heating problem
Let me just reply to all and I thank you all that my beautiful vintage boiler is working in tip-top shape(thank goodness)- On Scully's first visit he cleaned and drained the boiler which has not been done since 1986 as I stated much earlier. And upon doing what he did the NEW water level in the sight glass remained very low(below the manufacturers' decal for where the water line was supposed to be. With the boiler running to give heat to the home- the water level dropped below the cut-off switch and out of sight in the sight glass and the boiler turned off. This went on for about one week. Thked and Scully came back to talk about the options we had for the future fix and this was the other brother who I was told was an expert in steam heating systems. So when he came over we talked and he asked me what is different in the system that made it work so erratically. So I mentioned my basement was just redone and that set his mind to working overtime. he checked the pitch of the RETURN pipe. Because as he knew the water was NOT returning to the boiler quickly enough nor fully as it should up to the original water level. So he put a level on the return pipe in the area under the cubby hole(under the stairs)- which we use as storage and he noticed that there was an added piece of plywood that was put up to close off that under the stairs cubby hole from the other room so as not to see inside the storage area. believe it or not- the top of that piece of plywood was right underneath that section of the return pipe. he immediately took that piece of plywood down(which is not needed anyway- and we automatically heard the sound of returning water. He asked me to go check the sight glass and amazingly it was refilled to the original proper level. That was last Saturday and ever since my pipes have NOT banged. The cut-off switch does NOT go off(and the light never goes red) and the water returns to the boiler quicker than it ever has. I can hear it as the boiler is on. I then checked my daughter's radiator which is upstairs on the OTHER side of the house which Has NOT gotten hot for years. We all thought that it might be a faulty vent and they were going to check that. But I must say that since he corrected the pitch on that return pipe- even my daughter's radiator is steaming hot. WOW. So to answer that last gentleman's reply- yes he found the flaw in the pitch of the return pipe and corrected it and all is working amazingly well. I cannot thank Dan Scully enough for locating the problem because as he stated even with a new boiler we might have encountered the same problem. A true gentleman and a truly knowledgeable plumber who saved the homeowner an unwarranted job. I truly appreciate his help and his company Scully Plumbing for being there for us. he will come back to tweak a few things later in the season along with adding Wi-FI accessibility to my water heater so that if something happens with that I will be able to remotely shut it off. After seeing what he did for me- I trust any suggestion he has for me now. So there you have it men- I am good to go and Scullys has helped us immensely.
P.S.-- he will also be coming back to probably change all the air vents as well and balance the system at a later daye But he said that all can wait that I am in the drivers seat now and that the emergency is over and done with.
P.S.-- he will also be coming back to probably change all the air vents as well and balance the system at a later daye But he said that all can wait that I am in the drivers seat now and that the emergency is over and done with.
montek
10
Re: Stop Leak for my Burnham
When you install the new boiler you can flush out all the stop leak. it will not foul or damage pipes
Re: Fish House in Berkeley
The non- barrier polybutylene has held up very well - no issues. Radiant heating is only in the lower floor which is about 500 square feet and the heat source is a domestic water heater; stainless steel pump. A marriage made in heaven. Oxygen intrusion? No problem.
The neighborhood has mostly small, working class homes that go at a premium because of their proximity to the Fish House. It’s considered good luck.
A previous tenant was a group of start-up entrepreneurs that claimed that all their most brilliant ideas came to them while living here.
Have you ever been to Sedona, Arizona and experienced standing in a vortex? Being in the Fish House reminded me of that feeling. Safe, secure, inspired ……
Re: Which residential, variable speed, ECM pumps, controllable with 0-10 volts, exist in 2024?
The Taco 0026e, the 0034e and the 0034eplus all have 0-10v control.
Now these may not be ECM, but any size, standard AC, 00 circ can be ordered with the "VV" control that would accept 0-10
Whats your application or flow and head needed?
Now these may not be ECM, but any size, standard AC, 00 circ can be ordered with the "VV" control that would accept 0-10
Whats your application or flow and head needed?
Dave H_2
1
Re: Steam/Hydronic Combination Boilers?
Almost any steam boiler can be set up with a hot water loop.
I had very easy success with Peerless (63 or 64 series). They give you two 1" tappings expressly for this purpose that are above the bottom of the boiler by about a foot (minimizing mud flow into the line) and below the waterline.
I even ran mine directly from the boiler (no heat exchanger, fewer circulators required), pumped with a cast iron circulator (not usually advised with boiler water, but my water is treated and clean) and it has been doing great for 3 years so far.
You will want a bypass loop so you can moderate the temperature of your hot water as desired (you don't want 212F water in your floor radiant)
This article tells you everything you need and more:
https://heatinghelp.com/systems-help-center/how-to-run-a-hot-water-zone-off-a-steam-boiler/
I had very easy success with Peerless (63 or 64 series). They give you two 1" tappings expressly for this purpose that are above the bottom of the boiler by about a foot (minimizing mud flow into the line) and below the waterline.
I even ran mine directly from the boiler (no heat exchanger, fewer circulators required), pumped with a cast iron circulator (not usually advised with boiler water, but my water is treated and clean) and it has been doing great for 3 years so far.
You will want a bypass loop so you can moderate the temperature of your hot water as desired (you don't want 212F water in your floor radiant)
This article tells you everything you need and more:
https://heatinghelp.com/systems-help-center/how-to-run-a-hot-water-zone-off-a-steam-boiler/
Re: The Rise and Fall of Radiator Foundries: A Two Century Journey to Casting Radiators for Today
@Waher thank you, I know what you mean. I like your idea of making the scroll bar more obvious. Should be pretty simple.
I'm actually in the process of mocking up an additional tool that will sit below that size table. User selects the number of sections and heating mode (steam, hydronic, heat pump), to reveal all the specs for that specific size.
At present, I've got:
- Length
- Height
- Depth
- Empty weight
- Internal volume
- Output (BTUs)
- EDR
- Flow rate (hot water only)
I have a few questions on this that I'd love your (and anyone else's) input on if you're feeling generous enough to spare a few minutes:
1. Are there any other specs you'd like to see? Are these the right specs? What format would you like to have these available in? (I was thinking PDF and CSV downloads in addition to the on-screen display).
2. For heat outputs, I could go really granular and allow the user to select precise flow and return temperatures, or I could keep it as a black box (steam 215F, hydronic 170F, maybe with a heat pump at, say, 120F).
I'm erring on the side of a simplistic three options with the option to enter precise temps via an "advanced" function.
Would you find this useful? Do you often find yourself correcting outputs for different system temps? If you would find it useful, how would you design the system temp selector?
3. Are there any other features similar to this that you'd like to see?
With many thanks in advance
Nick
I'm actually in the process of mocking up an additional tool that will sit below that size table. User selects the number of sections and heating mode (steam, hydronic, heat pump), to reveal all the specs for that specific size.
At present, I've got:
- Length
- Height
- Depth
- Empty weight
- Internal volume
- Output (BTUs)
- EDR
- Flow rate (hot water only)
I have a few questions on this that I'd love your (and anyone else's) input on if you're feeling generous enough to spare a few minutes:
1. Are there any other specs you'd like to see? Are these the right specs? What format would you like to have these available in? (I was thinking PDF and CSV downloads in addition to the on-screen display).
2. For heat outputs, I could go really granular and allow the user to select precise flow and return temperatures, or I could keep it as a black box (steam 215F, hydronic 170F, maybe with a heat pump at, say, 120F).
I'm erring on the side of a simplistic three options with the option to enter precise temps via an "advanced" function.
Would you find this useful? Do you often find yourself correcting outputs for different system temps? If you would find it useful, how would you design the system temp selector?
3. Are there any other features similar to this that you'd like to see?
With many thanks in advance
Nick
Re: Fish House in Berkeley
The owner built it for his parents in the mid-1990's. His grandchildren now live there.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ojo_del_Sol
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ojo_del_Sol
Re: Energy Kinetics Introduces B100 Compatible Boilers
@BennyV , thank you for your comments.
I feel we need to take a "all in" approach and pursue different ways to use our natural resources wisely. That includes assessing the cost to operate, the source efficiency (how much energy is used to produce and deliver fuel to the home and to generate electricity and deliver that to the home), and environmental impacts (what are the full fuel cycle emissions like CO2 and particulates).
We all also know that fuel prices vary, so as consumers, what makes sense today may not make sense in a year or 5 years. For example, New England residential electricity prices averaged over $0.31/kWh a year ago - that's the equivalent of $12.60/gallon of heating oil, and $9.11/therm for natural gas. Since the price of electricity in these examples is 3x higher than oilheat and 5x higher than natural gas, heat pumps will have a difficult time competing on the cost to operate during New England winters. From that simple cost perspective (and from a reliability in cold weather perspective), it makes sense to have a boiler or furnace in addition to a heat pump so it's an easy decision on which to operate. And with biofuels, the environmental impact gap closes or is even eliminated in cold weather as well.
For reference last year over 4 billion gallons of biofuel were produced, up from 3 billion gallons the year before. Bioheat fuel is uniquely well suited to homes that have oilheat.
Roger
I feel we need to take a "all in" approach and pursue different ways to use our natural resources wisely. That includes assessing the cost to operate, the source efficiency (how much energy is used to produce and deliver fuel to the home and to generate electricity and deliver that to the home), and environmental impacts (what are the full fuel cycle emissions like CO2 and particulates).
We all also know that fuel prices vary, so as consumers, what makes sense today may not make sense in a year or 5 years. For example, New England residential electricity prices averaged over $0.31/kWh a year ago - that's the equivalent of $12.60/gallon of heating oil, and $9.11/therm for natural gas. Since the price of electricity in these examples is 3x higher than oilheat and 5x higher than natural gas, heat pumps will have a difficult time competing on the cost to operate during New England winters. From that simple cost perspective (and from a reliability in cold weather perspective), it makes sense to have a boiler or furnace in addition to a heat pump so it's an easy decision on which to operate. And with biofuels, the environmental impact gap closes or is even eliminated in cold weather as well.
For reference last year over 4 billion gallons of biofuel were produced, up from 3 billion gallons the year before. Bioheat fuel is uniquely well suited to homes that have oilheat.
Roger
Roger
3