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Re: TT Prestige Solo 60 E02 ERROR
Do you know if a combustion analysis was ever done? Soot on the venturi or a pitted venturi is a sign of poor combustion or the exhaust and combustion air comingling (exhaust getting sucked back into the boiler). You do need a combustion analyzer to properly change the venturi.
Zman
3
Re: Advice for replacing broken water heater
While I am not against heat pump water heaters, I would not put those in a tenants building.
ROI?? Where is the Return on your Investment?
Most tenants will not care about the "green" hot water, they will only care to not run out.
Then if any breakdown you have to be Johnny on the spot with the replacement.
I would go for 3 50 gal plain jane electric tanks.
I would even consider buying a spare and leave in the box in the basement.
How many amps are each panel rated for?
ROI?? Where is the Return on your Investment?
Most tenants will not care about the "green" hot water, they will only care to not run out.
Then if any breakdown you have to be Johnny on the spot with the replacement.
I would go for 3 50 gal plain jane electric tanks.
I would even consider buying a spare and leave in the box in the basement.
How many amps are each panel rated for?
JUGHNE
3
Re: not getting enough hot water from tankless coil
Those aquastat settings will cause trouble. The low needs to be at least 20° less than the high, and more if the differential is more than 10°. Any closer and they can interfere with each other, perhaps causing the symptoms you are experiencing.
bburd
1
Re: Weil McLain direct vent ultra oil boiler-has to be constantly reset
That boiler is extremely sensitive about its combustion settings. It has the Beckett NX burner and if the draft and air isn't setup correctly it will rapidly fill with soot. The boiler can be setup to run without making any soot but there's a much smaller margin for error than other boilers. Definitely not my favorite thing to work on. You need a good technician with a digital combustion analyzer to make sure draft and combustion are set properly. It also seems like the burner runs better on the Hago nozzle specified in the manual rather than the Delavan nozzles I usually use everywhere.
Re: No pressure at pigtail?
Since it is heating with low pressure and no real banging, don't fix it -- but whoever installed that boiler evidently can't read. That header should be at least 24 inches above the water line to get dry steam, and it could easily have been done right.
Re: Taco's VT2218 Delta T circulator
Hi Dave H. I just need clarification. In your post above (thank you for acknowledging the defect) you say that other than the display, all should be functioning. That's not the case with me or sounds like, @Franktg78 . Not only does the display not work as you stated, but it stays on one speed. The Delta-T does not modulate at all. I can't even get the speed to change in Constant Speed mode. Can you please clarify that the electronics are bad entirely and not controlling the motor correctly? I'm on my second with this issue. Thanks
Re: not getting enough hot water from tankless coil
The starting point for your L8124 aquastat should be 180°F high, 160°F low and 10°F Diff. If that does not get you where you want to be, then increase both the high and the low by 5°F Wait a few days before increasing the temperatures.
When you replaced the Coil, Did you install a thermostatic mixing valve? That can help with overheating and temperature fluctuation that is always a problem with tankless coil water heaters. If you do not have a mixing valve, you will always have fluctuating temperatures based on the operation of the burner nad circulator pump during heating and non heating cycles.
Here are 3 different boiler manufacturers instruction diagrams on tankless coil installation:
This is the one I used when installing or repairing Tankless coil jobs: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Resideo-Braukmann-AM100-US-1LF-1-2-Lead-Free-Union-Sweat-Mixing-Valve-70-145F?_br_psugg_q=am100-us-1lf
When you replaced the Coil, Did you install a thermostatic mixing valve? That can help with overheating and temperature fluctuation that is always a problem with tankless coil water heaters. If you do not have a mixing valve, you will always have fluctuating temperatures based on the operation of the burner nad circulator pump during heating and non heating cycles.
Here are 3 different boiler manufacturers instruction diagrams on tankless coil installation:
This is the one I used when installing or repairing Tankless coil jobs: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Resideo-Braukmann-AM100-US-1LF-1-2-Lead-Free-Union-Sweat-Mixing-Valve-70-145F?_br_psugg_q=am100-us-1lf
Re: No pressure at pigtail?
And the horizontal run between the main riser and the equalizer should not have a reducer. The water needs to drain UP to get out of the header.... Water does NOT drain UP!
Re: Understanding heat flows in high mass heating systems in old houses
The smaller boiler won't solve your problem and make the return water temp problem that you have not dealt with worse.
The best way to fix this is to set up the boiler with a mixing valve or injection mixing, possibly with outdoor reset to provide lower temp water to the radiators and keep the return water to the boiler hot enough to keep it from condensing. It will also need a thermostatic valve to keep the return water hot enough to prevent condensing
A thermostat with an anticipator you can set to shut off the boiler before it senses the heat can compensate for the heat in the mass of the system that will be radiated after the call ends. The boiler still needs return water temp protection to keep it from condensing which can cause corrosion of the boiler or the boiler to plug up with soot. The overshoot problem can be solved with the right thermostat configuration. The return water temp protection needs a bypass of some sort.
The best way to fix this is to set up the boiler with a mixing valve or injection mixing, possibly with outdoor reset to provide lower temp water to the radiators and keep the return water to the boiler hot enough to keep it from condensing. It will also need a thermostatic valve to keep the return water hot enough to prevent condensing
A thermostat with an anticipator you can set to shut off the boiler before it senses the heat can compensate for the heat in the mass of the system that will be radiated after the call ends. The boiler still needs return water temp protection to keep it from condensing which can cause corrosion of the boiler or the boiler to plug up with soot. The overshoot problem can be solved with the right thermostat configuration. The return water temp protection needs a bypass of some sort.
mattmia2
1