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In fairness to all, we don't discuss pricing on the Wall. Thanks for your cooperation.

Dave in QCA ✭✭✭

Dennis, put in an F&T trap on the outlet of the heater. No check valve, no vent. That should make it work fine with a condensate tank. BTW, I happen to have a Hoffman tank and pump that had about 4 years of use. It was removed when I put in the new boiler and went to a gravity return. It works great. It's a Hoffman WC-6-20B. It has a cast iron tank. I'd take $400 obo. Dave

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Dave in QCA
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  • Dave in QCA earned the Sixth Anniversary badge.
    Thanks for sticking with us for 6 years.
    May 11
  • j a
    Hello Jim phinney here I am a retired heating guy in Boston and helping a individual with a old trane vapor vacuum system...that I was hoping to ask for some advise... Cell 617688680 . If you wanw a d have time maybe u could call me. Thanks
    ·
    March 28
  • Dennis, put in an F&T trap on the outlet of the heater. No check valve, no vent. That should make it work fine with a condensate tank. BTW, I happen to have a Hoffman tank and pump that had about 4 years of use. It was removed when I put in the new boiler and went to a gravity return. It works great. It's a Hoffman WC-6-20B. It has a cast iron tank. I'd take $400 obo.
    Dave
    ·
    March 8
  • Pumpguy
    just to clarify, I meant steam coming out the vent on the condensate pump's tank, not the air vent shown in the drawing.

    Dennis
    ·
    March 8
  • Pumpguy
    Dave,

    Your post of March 4 showing the unit heater connection is similar to one that a customer of mine has.

    In his case, it's on a one pipe system, and too low to allow gravity flow of condensate to the boiler. As a result, condensate is backing up, and the heater is not putting out heat.

    He has asked us to quote a small condensate pump to deal with this.

    Questions: How would you suggest the discharge piping from the Unit Heater be set up? If discharging as shown directly to the vented condensate pump we'll have steam coming out the vent.

    Also, would you use the check valve shown in the drawing?

    And, in our case, do you think the 12" drop before the check valve is necessary?

    Any other suggestions to deal with this problem?

    Thanks for your reply.

    Dennis Pataki
    OAK SERVICES COMPANY
    PHONE: 1-888 853 9963
    ·
    March 8
  • Dave in QCA earned the 25 Likes badge.
    You received 25 Likes. You're posting some good content. Great!
    January 11
  • Dave in QCA, Tom_H and Mschuh2581 earned the Name Dropper badge.
    Mentioning someone in a discussion (like this: @Name) is a great way to encourage dialog and let them know who you’re talking to.
    December 2015
  • Dave in QCA earned the 5 Awesomes badge.
    You received 5 Awesomes. We like that.
    September 2015
  • Dave in QCA earned the 5 Agrees badge.
    You received 5 Agrees. We like that.
    September 2015
  • izhadano
    Dave,
    I'd love to see your summary on vacuum heating systems - saying the truth, feel lack of knowledge on specifics.
    Would you mind sending more info on your system, schematic, and how well it keeps vacuum/pressure (say drop from 20 to 10 "Hg in ... hours)?
    Will try to figure out how it may be simplified, - looks like you made a lot of improvements already.
    Thanks,
    Igor

    ·
    September 2015
  • Dave in QCA and rick in Alaska were promoted to Level 3.
    April 2015
  • Dave in QCA earned the 5 Likes badge.
    You received 5 Likes. We like that.
    April 2015
  • Dave in QCA earned the First Answer badge.
    Answering questions is a great way to show your support for a community!
    January 2015

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