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Ch240 remote install

XmytruckXmytruck Posts: 70Member
Hello

I was wondering if anyone could walk me through installing the remote. Sorry for the newbie question. I open the box that the remote came in I see that it has a female connecter, is there a wire in the combi that is a male connector? I saw the wiring diagram but not sure if I need to run a wire or if there is a wire already in the unit.

Thx
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Comments

  • JohnHenryJohnHenry Posts: 70Member
    Notice

    that the wire from the remote control is orange? The unit should have come with an orange wire with 2 male connectors on the ends. One end plugs into the remote and the other into the control board. Did you get the outdoor temp sensor so you can use outdoor reset?
    The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
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  • XmytruckXmytruck Posts: 70Member
    ?

    Would the make wire be in the unit and do you know how long that wire is?

    Thx

    Xmytruck
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  • JohnHenryJohnHenry Posts: 70Member
    The Orange wire.

    Is about 6ft long. As far as I recall, the wire wasn't inside the unit, it was with the blue pigtail used for the outdoor reset sensor (sold separately), which you should use.



    If you don't have the orange wire, the connectors are standard Molex types that can be gotten at any Radio Shack/electrical supply house. Take the remote to your local Radio Shack and have them set you up with a couple of connectors that fit into the female end on the remote. Get yourself enough 18 AWG STRANDED wire to reach from your boiler to the desired remote location. I put mine in place of my old thermostat and use it for a high limit switch.



    Again, you should use the outdoor reset. YOu can get the sensor here for around fiddy bux: http://bostonheatingsupply.com/nass9exos001.aspx
    The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
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  • XmytruckXmytruck Posts: 70Member
    Outdoor

    Hello

    What advantages does outdoor reset provide?

    Thx

    Peter
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  • JohnHenryJohnHenry Posts: 70Member
    edited February 2013
    Not to be cheeky,

    http://lmgtfy.com/?q=What+advantages+does+outdoor+reset+provide%3F



    http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/137389/Advantage-of-Outdoor-Reset



    Perhaps you could give us a description of your heating system (such as emmiter types, square footage of your home, insulation level, location).



    I take it you installed this yourself?



    Also, we like pictures!
    Post edited by JohnHenry on
    The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
    · ·
  • XmytruckXmytruck Posts: 70Member
    Heat

    So the house is built in 1984 so I am assuming it has insulation in the walls, it does have insulation in the attic The house is 2200 sq feet two floors and two zones. I have converted from oil to gas my system was installed by a pro. It has been a real experience to say the least the union joint outside by the meter leaked three times. The unit does a great job and I am happy with it but on single digit days the system struggles a little bit. I can not put the system at the high temp setting because the dhw goes up to 160 navien stated that I need the remote installed if it is switched to high temp. Also I can smell exhaust or a little gas once in a while if I am standing in front of the unit like with in a foot.
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  • JohnHenryJohnHenry Posts: 70Member
    ch-240

    There is no way that unit should have any issues heating a 2200 sq ft house built in the 80's unless the temp got to -75*F. It should have at least twice the needed capacity. I have a built in 1930, 3,000 sq ft poorly insulated house in a fairly mild climate (Seattle) and my CH-210 never has any difficulties. I don't think it's ever run at over 40% fire to heat the house (23*F outside temp with 73* inside temp). It should be noted that i have about a ton or so of cast iron radiators. Definitely a high mass system.



    What kind of emitters do you have? Baseboard? Flat panel? Floor heat? Sizes?



    Was a heat loss calculation ever done?



    If your pro didn't install the remote control and insist you get the outdoor sensor, he may not be very experienced with radiant systems. Any plumber or heating contractor can screw together parts, however, it takes someone with deep understanding to make a newer system like this work optimally.



    Did you find the connectors to install the remote control yet? Have you ordered the outdoor temp sensor yet? Those items really help overall efficiency. The sensor is just over fifty dollars with a few dollars of wire needed to install it. You'll save that $50 in fuel in a month or two and have better comfort.



    Pictures?



    As to the exhaust and gas smell, that could be a very dangerous situation. I'm guessing your guy never checked the flue gas composition to make sure it was running right. My advice here would be to get someone else in asap with the proper leak detection equipment to get to the bottom of the smells.



    Also, to your dhw time lag issue, I handled that by putting a small 10 gallon electric water heater inline as a buffer.
    The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
    · ·
  • XmytruckXmytruck Posts: 70Member
    Pro

    Thx for the advice great info I have not had a chance to get the connector or outside sensor. As for the heat loss calc I would assume yes but you never really know. The house is baseboard heat and their seems to be enough baseboard. As for the fumes I have one hardwire CO detector with three feet of the unit, a battery CO within 10 feet and a gas and CO detector within 20 feet none of them have gone off. Could a gas leak outside affect gas composition? I have had three leaks by the union joint before the meter, I hope that issue is finally resolved. To say the least it has been a real experience converting from oil to gas. I will try to take a few Pic today.



    Thx
    · ·
  • JohnHenryJohnHenry Posts: 70Member
    heat loss

    I'd be pretty confident in betting your guy never did a heat loss.



    The normal order in a proper design would be to do a heat loss calculation and then measure the amount of radiation to determine what kind of water temps you need to run. This will determine what kind of equipment you can run.



    On this board, you'll read over and over again that the main ingredient in a successful install is the installer himself. I couldn't agree more.



    I'm curious, why don't you have the original installer dial in the system to your satisfaction? That really should be part of the original install deal. I guess that's the difference between the lowest bid and the other bids...



    The union joints at the meter do commonly leak. Here in Seattle the gas company has crews that go around and actually check meters for leaks once a year. They just fixed a leak in mine a few months ago.



    A gas leak outside will not affect the flue (exhaust) gas composition unless the leak is so big the unit doesn't get enough gas to run.



    Order the sensor today and you'll get it this week. Outdoor reset can give you up to 20% more efficiency. It pays for itself VERY quickly.
    The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
    · ·
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