To get email notification when someone adds to a thread you're following, click on the star in the thread's header and it will turn yellow; click again to turn it off. To edit your profile, click on the gear.
The Wall has a powerful search engine that will go all the way back to 2002. Use "quotation marks" around multiple-word searches. RIGHT-CLICK on the results and choose Open Link In New Window so you'll be able to get back to your results. Happy searching!
In fairness to all, we don't discuss pricing on the Wall. Thanks for your cooperation.

Question about pro press

   Hey wet head buddies; you to Dan the man. Love you Dan you know I got to pick on you, wouldn't be right if I didn't at least once or twice a year . Now on to more serious stuff. I was asked to do a boiler retro fit and they are wanting to use pro press, which it is not my favorite thing but that's me.

   I have used the pro press in the past on smaller stuff and it was OK, but have always had some issues on the larger copper 2" and bigger. I will on occasions do some work for different colleges and all I have ever heard was that after time on copper 2"  and above on  boilers  there were leaks on the joints.

   The last thing I want is a urinating war, I just want the facts if it is me or have there been some issues, not looking for a war of words please just the facts.Thank you for any helpful information and please remember to respect Dan and the Wall.





PEACE BE WITH YOU

DAVID C. BROOME

 
· ·

Comments

  • heatpro02920heatpro02920 Posts: 991Member
    Im not a fan of the stuff...

    I bought the machine {corded ridgid} and hardly ever use it, I actually don't like it on the small stuff and when I do use it I use it with the 3" and 4" with good luck.... I don't get leaks, but I have seen other guys with the cordless tool complain about doing the big stuff...



    My biggest reason for not using it much is the cost of the fittings, I did a 4" main that had a good unstoppable drip, used 4" flanges and flange valve, dont get me wrong anything 4" is expensive but I want to say the job averaged $150 per fitting... Vs copper sweat fittings would have been less than 1/2 of that....



    I admit it comes in handy on pipes with water in them, but most of the time its not worth pulling it all out of the box, I just drain or plug and sweat....
    · ·
  • DrewMDrewM Posts: 10Member
    ProPress

    The consensus in our outfit is that it is a crackerjack shutdown tool, but for a full installation is awful. Every time you crimp a fitting it pulls the joint out of line, and if you have to make a change for any reason, you have to throw the old fitting out. Sure, it cuts down on the time it takes to train a guy, but do you really want someone so inexperienced that he can't solder pipe doing your work without supervision?
    · ·
  • DrewMDrewM Posts: 10Member
    Soldering

    I once crimped 2 sides of a tee, and then couldn't reach the bull because of ductwork.

    After scratching my head a little, I pulled out the rubber, wrapped a wet rag around the fitting, and soldered it together.

    Still don't like the stuff though.
    · ·
  • Jim GodboutJim Godbout Posts: 49Member
    Press

    We have used press since 2005 with no problems with any size

    Used it with copper, black iron, water, gas, air, solar, steam, and about 80 boilers a year are pressed with ease.

    Clean safe and labor saving

    As far as pulling action once you learn the tool you become accustomed to make adjustments as you press

    Good luck in decisions
    Jim Godbout
    · ·
This discussion has been closed.

Welcome

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!