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Timco
Timco Member Posts: 3,040
edited February 2017 in THE MAIN WALL
Fun 840,000k steamer. My first 60" wrench. Would have preferred a float activated condensate tank but this was light. I'm in a sub-basement.



















Just a guy running some pipes.
RickBlackford
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  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,539
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    Yeah, I bet that one was a blast probably 3 floors below grade. Is the header 3" & the supply 4"??

    Never had a 5'wrench. If I can't do it with a 3 footer I'll weld it.
    a stinger is a lot lighter than a 5' wrench LOL

    Looks like your in a tight spot there
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,040
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    All 5". Ties into building in 6".
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,539
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    No wonder you needed the 5'!!
  • LionA29
    LionA29 Member Posts: 255
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    What a Beast!
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
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    @Timco, is that bushing, in that elbow, on the horizontal, just before it goes up to the main going to hold water in that elbow and cause a problem? Maybe a little hammer?
    Timco
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,040
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    Fred said:

    @Timco, is that bushing, in that elbow, on the horizontal, just before it goes up to the main going to hold water in that elbow and cause a problem? Maybe a little hammer?

    Sure hope not. Not enough room for a bell reducer. The old one hammered so bad the boiler shook.
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,040
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    They didn't have a 6x5 in the valley. I'll look into shipping options Monday if you think that will be an issue.
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • LionA29
    LionA29 Member Posts: 255
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    > @Timco said:
    > @Timco, is that bushing, in that elbow, on the horizontal, just before it goes up to the main going to hold water in that elbow and cause a problem? Maybe a little hammer?
    >
    > Sure hope not. Not enough room for a bell reducer. The old one hammered so bad the boiler shook.

    I totally agree with @Fred, possibly a reducing elbow if available.
    Timco
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,040
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    Fortunately it's not too hard to access if I have issues. I can always get one coming and plan on swapping it. There is good slope but it will catch some water.
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
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    Timco said:

    They didn't have a 6x5 in the valley. I'll look into shipping options Monday if you think that will be an issue.

    I think a reducing elbow, as @LionA29 suggests would be the better way to go. Let's see if anyone else has an opinion.
    Timco
  • john p_2
    john p_2 Member Posts: 367
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    What about increasing in size with the flanges? Smaller size on the bottom, larger on top.
    Timco
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,040
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    john p said:

    What about increasing in size with the flanges? Smaller size on the bottom, larger on top.

    I'll ask about that tomorrow. Great idea! Lots of 6" parts available. Very limited on 5".
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,040
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    Well, it's 6" flanges and bush below bottom flange. Only option.
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
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    Timco said:

    Well, it's 6" flanges and bush below bottom flange. Only option.

    That works, as long as the bushing is on the vertical and not on a horizontal.
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,040
    edited February 2017
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    Well, how does this look?
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
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    No Picture
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,040
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    Won't load. Hmmmmm.
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,040
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    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • Gsmith
    Gsmith Member Posts: 432
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    Looks great!
  • Abracadabra
    Abracadabra Member Posts: 1,948
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    @Timco in the future, I'd suggest having the blowoff valve for the LWCO directly under the LWCO with a tee and run the bull of the tee back to the boiler. That way you'll get the float chamber emptying instead of drawing water out of the bottom of the boiler for your weekly blowdowns.
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,040
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    Abracadabra said:

    @Timco in the future, I'd suggest having the blowoff valve for the LWCO directly under the LWCO with a tee and run the bull of the tee back to the boiler. That way you'll get the float chamber emptying instead of drawing water out of the bottom of the boiler for your weekly blowdowns.

    It's funny you mention that. I was thinking to myself just today that it seems like that will pull from the boiler. I had it as you say to be honest, left for parts, and my helpers changed it to as you see. Not too hard to fix. Thanks.
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • john p_2
    john p_2 Member Posts: 367
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    Very hard to tell from your photo angle where you re-installed the bushing? Or did you?
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
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    It right under that flange.
  • john p_2
    john p_2 Member Posts: 367
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    OK, glad it worked out? No leaks?
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,040
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    john p said:

    OK, glad it worked out? No leaks?

    Fill it tomorrow.
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • LionA29
    LionA29 Member Posts: 255
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    @Timco that big boy looks ready to steam. Good luck.
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,040
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    Heats great & silent! Returns hammer and I have a couple drips to fix.
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • john p_2
    john p_2 Member Posts: 367
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    Drops due to the replied parts? Uggggghhhh
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
    edited February 2017
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    Are all the wet returns below the water line on this new boiler and any drips tied together below the water line? If not they are going to get steam and hammer .
  • john p_2
    john p_2 Member Posts: 367
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    Drips due to the replied parts? Uggggghhhh
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,040
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    Yep. Moved those joints a few times. It all comes apart tomorrow but it fits so I'm not building as I go.
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,040
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    Fred said:

    Are all the wet returns below the water line on this new boiler and any drips tied together below the water line? If not they are going to get steam and hammer .

    I call returns below the boiler wet. These are 1.5 & 2" and all three have new main vents. The hammer is 20' closer to condensate tank past main vents. These carry condensate and air. Tank is not vented, just a vac breaker.
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
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    Yes those are wet but steam must be getting in them from somewhere or they wouldn't hammer. There may be a hidden wet return somewhere that may be above the new boiler's water line???
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
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    Do those three mains/dry returns drop below the water line before they connect to the wet return?
    hituw2x4
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,040
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    All three come into the boiler room upper level, drop at their vent about a foot, then travel to next to the boiler on the upper level before coming together and dropping into the pit and drain to the collection box. Pics tomorrow.
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
    edited February 2017
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    I think you'll find that they all need to drop into the pit individually and then come together and drain into the collection box. Otherwise you're passing steam from one return into another. That's where your hammer is coming from.
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,040
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    I'll post pics later. I'm really happy with these results. That old smith banged and actually moved on cold starts with that dead header and tie in 3". Garbage install. Mine is silent. Have to lower the LWCO too.
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,040
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    What's your fav way to clean the oils from a new startup out?
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
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    All the approaches, if done right yield the same result. It is a very slow process. Raise the water level until it just starts to dribble out of the skim port. close the port and bring the boiler water up to just below boiling. At that point, open the skim port and use the manual water supply valve to allow the water to dribble out of the skim port. By dribble, I mean a flow no larger than the diameter of a pencil. Use a 5 gallon bucket to catch the water. It tkaes at least an hour or two to fill a 5 gallon bucket. You need to drain several buckets full (four or five). When done, close the skim port, lower the water level in the boiler and fire it up. The boiler will need to be skimmed at least two or three more times, about a week or two apart to get all the oils out. I personally use a garden hose. If you can rig one up on the side of a five gallon bucket and run the hose over to a floor drain, I run the hose over to a floor drain, set the water dribble into the bucket and let it run over night. I don't have to be there to empty buckets that way.
  • Abracadabra
    Abracadabra Member Posts: 1,948
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    The @Hatterasguy sliced-cap (tm) on the skim port speeds things up quite a bit. I made my own and I've hed pretty good results skimming a lgb-14 in less than 4 hours last week. Will probably do another skim next week but water line is damn stable after a single 4 hour skim.

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