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Mounting Panel Rad on solid brick wall

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I am mounting a panel rad on drywall covered solid brick exterior wall (with a air space between the interior/exterior brick). The brick is fairly soft and have not had good luck with the brick holding anchors, I was thinking molly toggles to hold the brackets. Suggestions and what size?????

Comments

  • Abracadabra
    Abracadabra Member Posts: 1,948
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    Hilti hybrid hfx with wedge or sleeve anchors depending on your method of attachment.
    kcopp
  • kcopp
    kcopp Member Posts: 4,432
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    I will remember that one... I usually drill out 1/4" - 3/8" holes and drive in wood wedges. epoxy would help a lot.
  • NY_Rob
    NY_Rob Member Posts: 1,370
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    I've had good results over the past few months using the Tapcon Anchors http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tapcon-1-4-in-x-2-1-4-in-Hex-Washer-Head-Concrete-Anchor-75-Pack-24325/100079414
    I've used them for both concrete and standard red brick.
    Make sure you use the supplied drill bit and a hammer drill so it bores the hole quickly and avoids oversizing it. If you go this route... get the anchors w/the hex heads vs. Philips heads.
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 6,506
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    If you have drywall, gap, brick, tapcons aren't going to work unless you are going thru furring strips. If you have a gap, I would put blocking in. You can probably, depending on the panel rads, do this where the rad covers the drywall patch.
    steve
  • Mark Eatherton
    Mark Eatherton Member Posts: 5,853
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    Never had to deal with drywall and gaps, but did use to deal with soft red clay bricks a lot. I found that using lead wool packed into the hole, then use a conventional lag screw worked excellent. Hole was just slightly bigger than the OD of the lag screw. Stuffing lead wool into the hole through the sheetrock gap may be problematic, but may be worth a shot.

    Credit to Dennis Bellanti on the lead wool idea.

    ME
    It's not so much a case of "You got what you paid for", as it is a matter of "You DIDN'T get what you DIDN'T pay for, and you're NOT going to get what you thought you were in the way of comfort". Borrowed from Heatboy.
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,140
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    I used an epoxy product from Hilti. It looks like a mesh sock, slips into an oversized hole and epoxy injects into it. This allows you to use threaded rod, or whatever fastener you chose.

    If you have a gap, a threaded rod would allow you to put a sleeve around it to take up the gap, without collapsing the sheet rock.

    The nice feature is it didn't matter if you hit a mortar joint or had an oversized bore, the epoxy expanded into the entire space.

    Intended for anchor bolts into a floor, should work on walls.

    I agree with Tapcons you need the exact sized drill and don't wobble :)
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • SWEI
    SWEI Member Posts: 7,356
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    I believe Simpson also makes an old brick anchor.
  • Fred Rappuhn
    Fred Rappuhn Member Posts: 107
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    What I am dealing with is a soft red clay like brick, that was plastered over and the dry wall was glued to the brick/plastered wall. Expanding anchors tend to bust the brick up and a tap-con does not bite very well. I was originally thinking of a molly toggle to go completely through and grab from the back, but I am very interested in the Hilti epoxy
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,140
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    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • ratio
    ratio Member Posts: 3,626
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    Maybe these will work? They might not have one long enough to reach all the way through the brick, but if they do there isn't much that will hold better.