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Worried my furnace is running way to much!

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I just moved into an apartment, its 3 floors heated with gas. The furnace is new and has all documentation attached to it. Last night I set the temp to 69 degrees and went to bed. I noticed the heat did get to 69 degrees and the house felt fine, except the air would shut off, then a few minutes later it would kick back on for a while, shut off then kick back on. It did this all night, and all morning. I'm worried its going to spike my gas and electric because it sounds like somethings constantly running. I was going to look through the manual but I wouldn't even know what to look for. The thermostat is so basic, its got on opton for heat, cool, and off and the fan mode is either auto or on. The house is at 69 so I don't know why its still running. I did notice the basement is pretty warm and occasionally the air coming from the vents seemed cool, could that have something to do with it? Are there any settings that I should be looking for on the furnace itself? I'm not really saavy with appliances but I can do anything with the proper instructions.

Thanks in advance.

Comments

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 23,286
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    It is normal for a forced air system to have the fan running off and on; it's common for it to be set to 6 cycles per hour -- every 10 minutes. The air from the vents may be cooler at times, depending on whether the burner in the furnace -- which is quite different from the blower -- is running. You'd have to be at the furnace itself to find out whether the burner is on or not.
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • SlamDunk
    SlamDunk Member Posts: 1,580
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    It is possible you have a poorly insulated house, or a poorly located thermostat (shouldn't be nr a leaky window, mounted to an outside wall or in a room with a door to the outside. Could be you have duct leaks in the basement keeping the heated air from reaching the house. Could be your furnace is undersized. Or a combination of all of the above.

    If I had to guess, if your house is evenly 69 without cold rooms or floors, you either have poor insulation (house is losing heat as fast as furnace can create it) or an undersized furnace.

  • sniperzombies
    sniperzombies Member Posts: 9
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    The thermostat is in the livingroom, not near any windows, outside walls or doors. The temp is even on all the floors. I just wanted to know if it was normal. Is there any way to tell without getting my first gas bill? SHould I have the fan on auto or on?
  • unclejohn
    unclejohn Member Posts: 1,833
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    Leave It on auto. What is the outdoor temp. Is your apt. 3 floors or is the apt. building 3 floors.
  • sniperzombies
    sniperzombies Member Posts: 9
    edited October 2015
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    My apartment is 3 floors. The temp outside last night was probably in the 40's. Its an old apartment that has been remodeled. The windows are pretty new, probably within the last 3 years.
  • Abracadabra
    Abracadabra Member Posts: 1,948
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    Even though windows are "pretty new", I've seen poorly installed windows leak more than old windows with storm windows. You should do a check for air leaks. check all the usual suspects... doors/windows/can lights/fireplace
  • unclejohn
    unclejohn Member Posts: 1,833
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    A new furnace should have a fixed on delay for the fan and a fixed off delay. It sounds like your describing a older furnace with a temperature driven fan on off delay. Is the tstat electronic or analog? Is it a round Honeywell? It may be that the heat anticipator is set incorrectly.
  • SlamDunk
    SlamDunk Member Posts: 1,580
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    It does not sound normal. 40' outside temp is pretty mild. Sounds like, to me, your apt is uniformly under insulated or your furnace is undersized.

    But, as Jamie Hall mentioned, some tstats have a parameter in the program that allows you to reduce the cycle times per hour. Reduce it to half and see if you can still maintain 69 through the night.

  • sniperzombies
    sniperzombies Member Posts: 9
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    Its electric box shaped. Very basic. How would I run a 'program? '
  • unclejohn
    unclejohn Member Posts: 1,833
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    You need the installation book. Any Mod.# on it. Can you take a picture of it.
  • sniperzombies
    sniperzombies Member Posts: 9
    edited October 2015
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    I'm not at home right now, but I can post something later. I don't want a surprise bill, but I have 2 parrots so I also am concerned with it being too cold.
  • unclejohn
    unclejohn Member Posts: 1,833
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    Righty-O
  • Quercus
    Quercus Member Posts: 61
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    (with johnny carson impersonation)

    hmmm Slamdunk, it's getting warm in here...

    (adjust your tie)
    sniperzombies
  • sniperzombies
    sniperzombies Member Posts: 9
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    So if there isn't any options to to change the furnace, if it is too small or my house is not insulated, is there anything I can do to make sure it doesn't over work itself?
  • Brewbeer
    Brewbeer Member Posts: 616
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    If you don't own the furnace then you really can't change it without the owners permission. Best bet is to see if the T-stat can be adjusted to reduce the cycling.
    Hydronics inspired homeowner with self-designed high efficiency low temperature baseboard system and professionally installed mod-con boiler with indirect DHW. My system design thread: http://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/154385
    System Photo: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/FileUpload/79/451e1f19a1e5b345e0951fbe1ff6ca.jpg
  • Zman
    Zman Member Posts: 7,569
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    What is the location of the t-stat in relation to the supply ducts? Dose the duct blow warm air directly at it?
    A picture of the t-stat would help.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
    Albert Einstein
  • rick in Alaska
    rick in Alaska Member Posts: 1,457
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    I am not sure if you are saying the furnace burner is coming on and off, or just the blower fan. If the burner shuts off, and then the blower fan shuts off a while later, and then the blower fan comes on and off a few times before the burner comes back on again, then we are looking at something different.
    If it is just the blower fan coming on and off, it could be dirty air filters, bad limit switches, thermostat issues, dust size issues, etc.
    So, so does the burner keep coming on with the blower, or just the blower?
    Rick
  • SlamDunk
    SlamDunk Member Posts: 1,580
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    If you don't have a thermostat that is capable of adjusting cycles/hr, you can buy one for 50-75 bucks at Lowe's or Home Depot to replace the one you have and see if it works.

    If you don't have the manual for your current thermostat, you can down load one online.

    As far as overworking your unit, don't worry, the unit can handle it plus it is covered by warranties and landlord.

    If it is fuel cost you are worried about, not sure what else you can do. You cant do anything to the furnace or insulation since you are in a rental.

    If I had parrots though, I would buy an oil filled electric radiator to keep in their room as back up heat source.
  • sniperzombies
    sniperzombies Member Posts: 9
    edited October 2015
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    Thanks for the input. I do have an oil filled radiator which is wonderful. Its not cold enough yet outside where I'm too concerned. I took a picture of the furnace and the model number, I'll upload later.

    As for tstats and ducts I'm not sure what I'm loooking for. I can't explain whats going on with the heater because I don't really know what a heater is supposed to do.

    I put the fan on auto and it did decrease the frequency the fan turned on. Whether its the air intake or blower, I don't know. They both sound the same. All I know is sometimes it feels cold, and sometimes it feels warm.
  • ratio
    ratio Member Posts: 3,626
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    If the fan was switched to the on position but was going off, then something is definitely wrong. Tie or tape a short piece of yarn onto one of the furnace outlets, that'll prove if the blower fan is on or off.

    And "feels warm, feels cold" is a forced air furnace working properly... ^_^ Leave the fan on auto unless you have a reason to switch it to on.

  • sniperzombies
    sniperzombies Member Posts: 9
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    Crap I must have taken a picture of a part instead of the actual furnace. We have central air too, this is what I got. Carrier brand Model number CNPVP2417ALAAAAA pulls up a part.
  • SlamDunk
    SlamDunk Member Posts: 1,580
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    ok, there is some minor confusion. The fan switch on the thermostat should always be in "auto". If the fan switch is left in the "ON' position, the blower will push air thru your vents 100% of the time and the burner will cycle on/off as needed which will be often because leaving the fan in ON will cool the ducts faster and cool the house making the burner cycle more frequently.
  • sniperzombies
    sniperzombies Member Posts: 9
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    Thanks, that clarifies things.
  • unclejohn
    unclejohn Member Posts: 1,833
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    That Mod. # is of your evaporator coil. That is above your furnace. It is a fairly recent Mod.# so if your furnace is the same age it should not have a temperature driven fan cycle control. It's a two ton A/C coil that is 17 1/2 inches wide. Your furnace may have a window about knee high with a amber or red light behind it. If when the furnaces blows cool air see if the light is on steady or blinking.