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Question about cleaning/replacing wet returns on a new boiler install

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Hello!

I am in the process of trying to get a new steam boiler installed.

I have an old house (1920s/1930s)--with what look like very old wet returns.

1) Must I have them cleaned out or replaced at the time of the install or can this be a project I undertake after the install? I know that would require a duplication of some of the work (and, as a result, be more expensive in the long run)--but my husband currently has a whole mess of shelves and stuff that would most likely have to be moved in order to reach them, and I am not sure I can ask that of him right now (illness in the family and a crisis at work).

In short--will I ruin a brand, spanking, new boiler if I fail to clean out or replace the wet returns at the time of the install? I have made enough dumb mistakes this year... I don't want to make another!

2) Also--with old wet returns: just replace instead of try to clean them out? The one steam guy I had in here who I trusted thought replacing them made the most sense, and his reasoning seemed sound to me.

3) Finally, copper is permissible on wet returns because it is below the water line of the boiler, correct? Any reason not to use copper?

Thanks, all!

Comments

  • STEAM DOCTOR
    STEAM DOCTOR Member Posts: 1,973
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    1. Not crucial to replace at this time. Most people only replace wet returns when they leak. Ideally everyone would replace long before they actually do.
    2.Assuming that your return as not been cleaned regularly, my opinion is that replacement makes more sense. Cleaning is a big job and may expose holes in the return (sludge can be a good plug). Also, don't think that it makes much sense to put lots of money into a wet return that may konk out at any time.
    3. Copper is allowed on wet returns and according to many (myself included), is the preferred material.
    4. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE SOMEONE QUALIFIED INSTALL YOUR NEW BOILER. MOST(LICENSED OR OTHERWISE)ARE WOEFULLY UNQUALIFIED!!!!!!!!!
  • Homeowner3
    Homeowner3 Member Posts: 23
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    Thanks, very much for your response.

    I am not sure my wet return has even been cleaned! And, yes--cleaning them out sounds like a real mess. I hadn't thought about sludge being a plug, but that makes sense...

    The best steam guy I had in here said to replace them--and it seems like simple good sense to do so. I was just unsure if the timing was critical re: the install. I don't want to mess up a new boiler!

    Okay. I will figure out the install and ask my husband for new wet returns for Christmas! :smiley:

    Thanks--I was slightly unsure about the copper on wet returns.

    Thank you!
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,062
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    Is "the one trusted steam guy" doing your boiler replacement?

    If you could replace all the easy piping at the boiler that would be a big help. And if they could install clean out plugs in that part it may collect junk from the old piping and allow it to be flushed out before it gets into the boiler.

    A main concern is that you have no leaks in existing piping, Can you see all of the wet return, is it above the floor so that any water leaks would be noticed even with the stored items there.
    Having to constantly add fresh water would drastically shorted a boiler's life.
  • SWEI
    SWEI Member Posts: 7,356
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    Any reason not to use copper?

    Two specifically: I would not use copper for a return which is embedded in concrete, or for a return which is direct buried in an area with low soil pH.
  • Homeowner3
    Homeowner3 Member Posts: 23
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    Ah--thanks! I forgot to mention that my wet returns are all exposed in an unfinished basement. They are pitched a few inches off the floor and run alongside the exterior walls...
  • Homeowner3
    Homeowner3 Member Posts: 23
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    @JUGHNE -- All of the wet returns can be seen. All are a few inches off the floor and run along the perimeter of the basement. No leaks there that I am aware of. I had not thought about sledge working as a plug before tonight, though...

    My worry was that junk might be flushed into the new boiler if I failed to address the wet returns at the time of the install. So, that is a concern?

    My current boiler died at 7 years, as a result of a leak/too much fresh water/lack of proper care other than annual check up. I am learning the hard way... :(
  • KC_Jones
    KC_Jones Member Posts: 5,739
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    This has been suggested many times on this site. Ask the installer for pictures of previous steam installs and post them here. We can look at them and determine in about 10 seconds if you have a good steam contractor or not. Feel free to do it if you want even more piece of mind about your selection of a contractor. I wouldn't post any names or anything just steam boiler installs. If they refuse to send pictures well then personally I would dismiss them for that alone. I just noticed you are in NJ have you called any of the contractors in the find a contractor link on this site? Here are a couple we have seen on this site and know they are doing good work. @Dave0176
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/dl-mechanical-llc
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/shane-a-foster-plumbing-and-hydronic-heating
    2014 Weil Mclain EG-40
    EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Boiler Control
    Boiler pictures updated 2/21/15
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,062
    edited October 2015
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    If the new wet return piping right at the boiler was placed right on the floor lower that the existing old piping and a full port clean out valve with a hose fitting installed you could drain down the wet return yourself as needed. Also if the end of the existing piping went into the run of a tee, with the same drain setup as above into the other run of that tee. Then the bull (side of tee) would be connected to the new piping at boiler return. This gives you a step down for sediment collection. This would also give you 2 flushing ports for the returns.

    Also this return water must climb up the Hartford Loop connection about a foot and a half or so. This may keep sediment out of the new boiler if you drain the returns periodically. Then when the boiler fires, fresh water will be added, you must be sure to bring the new water up to a boil to get rid of oxygen introduced.

    Also if you had a full port ball valve install in the riser up to the Hartford Loop, you could then isolate the boiler from the returns. This could give you the chance to connect a hose on the old piping and shoot water pressure for maybe 3 seconds at a time to back flush the old piping. Then open the new lower drain valve and see what comes out to the floor drain.