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Threaded rod cutter

Snowmelt
Snowmelt Member Posts: 1,405
I wa browsing rems websight then saw this jaw for threaded rod. Then I googled threaded rod cutter, there was a post here and a post on the rigid forum about how it fits on the rigid press machine for propress.
Does anyone have any coments on this?

Comments

  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,363
    I've got the REMS Rod cutter and it works great. They offer it in 3/8 and 1/2" but you can by the cutter dies for either jaw and interchange them if you don't want to fork out the $$ for two jaws.

    I don't know about them fitting a Rigid tool. From what I've been told, not so, but Milwaukee and Rigid will interchange.
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • SWEI
    SWEI Member Posts: 7,356
    Milwaukee has a chart showing whose heads fit which tools of theirs. Look for some new jaw options from M later this year.
  • Tinman
    Tinman Member Posts: 2,808
    I use a 4 1/2" Makita grinder with a thin, metal cutting wheel. Theres a lot of sparking though so it's kind of pain to send Tim outside to do it. But, it's an inexpensive, quick way to get clean cuts every time.
    Steve Minnich
  • Tinman
    Tinman Member Posts: 2,808
    Usually it's 4 cuts at a time so it isn't that bad.
    Steve Minnich
  • Snowmelt
    Snowmelt Member Posts: 1,405
    Iron man, do you have the jaws or the manual cutters that look like bolt cutters
  • GW
    GW Member Posts: 4,682
    I bought a Milwaukee mini band saw, it's amazing how often this Lil saw cones in hamdy. It's perfect for rod. The main reason I bought it was for cutting steel pipe for gas piping (mega press work)
    Gary Wilson
    Wilson Services, Inc
    Northampton, MA
    [email protected]
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,405
    Yes, those little band saws are nice and light and do a good job. I usually use a band saw for most cutting (either the small one or the reg. portaband.). If you use it moderately the blades hold up well. Nothing wrong with a hack saw if it's only a few cuts
  • Snowmelt
    Snowmelt Member Posts: 1,405
    G.W. I bought a saw zall with A guide to cut straight, works great it's made by rems. That's where I saw this threaded pipe cutter for the press tool. It's just another
  • wogpa67
    wogpa67 Member Posts: 238
    We cut bundles at a time. Portaband and a chain vise is the way to go.
  • Snowmelt
    Snowmelt Member Posts: 1,405
    Jaw. So I was like what the hell am I waiting for
  • jm0711
    jm0711 Member Posts: 6
    I own the REMS rod cutter jaws for 3/8" rod. If you own the REMS press tool and cut threaded rod more than once a week, buy the tool. It's awesome.
    Ironman
  • Paul48
    Paul48 Member Posts: 4,469
    Stephen....This is gonna sound nit-picky, but, your install would be much stronger if you scabbed 2-by's to the sides of the joists and ran the rod all the way through. You could keep a set of pre-drilled 2-by's on the truck.
  • SWEI
    SWEI Member Posts: 7,356
    Those Sammys actually have ridiculous pull-out strength.

    We use the concrete versions a lot (but we have to plan ahead -- nobody anywhere near here seems to stock them.)
  • Paul48
    Paul48 Member Posts: 4,469
    Vibration is the killer, or, it can be.
  • SWEI
    SWEI Member Posts: 7,356
    The biggest issue we see from vibration is moving nuts on threaded rod. Unless they are doubled up and jammed together or backed with something solid and a split ring lockwasher, they tend to migrate over time (in the wrong direction, of course.)
  • Paul48
    Paul48 Member Posts: 4,469
    Lockwashers, hammer, center punch
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,363
    Snowmelt said:

    Iron man, do you have the jaws or the manual cutters that look like bolt cutters

    I have the press jaws.

    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • Tinman
    Tinman Member Posts: 2,808
    Paul48, The air handler you're looking at weighs roughly 110# spread evenly at 4 points of suspension. That's 27.5# at each point.

    Really?

    What I did is already overkill.

    Please.
    Steve Minnich
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,038
    I like the Sammie Sidewinders placed about 2/3 up on the side of the joist (if possible). The more length in the hanger rod allows for more swing for expansion and contraction of pipes. It seems to keep the hangers from walking on the pipe. Also excess rod can be burned up thru the Sidewinders, so the exact cut for length is not so critical . Adding a lockwasher/jam nut to the rod on the top of the Sammie keeps the rod from rotating. The same for the other end at the hanger.
    Chop saw cut and grind a bevel on the rod using the side of the wheel. Do outside if possible or in unfinished basement.
  • Tinman
    Tinman Member Posts: 2,808
    edited March 2015
    UL load for the Sammys I used is 1500# each. I would never even come remotely close to that load but I think I'll be alright at 27.5# each.
    Steve Minnich
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,038
    My theory is that every pipe/conduit I install eventually becomes a grab bar for an old circumferentially challenged tradesman such as myself. :| So I know that someday it will be used as such.
    Have grabbed too many old pipes and been surprised and had to upgrade someone's else hangers.
  • Paul48
    Paul48 Member Posts: 4,469
    Sorry I mentioned it... Best Wishes
  • Tinman
    Tinman Member Posts: 2,808
    Not a problem, Paul. I try really, really hard to keep the bar raised. And, I'm sure you do the same as well.
    Steve Minnich
  • Tinman
    Tinman Member Posts: 2,808
    My wife just told me I need a Snickers bar.
    Steve Minnich
    RJMCTAFO