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Trying to drain water too full

I can't figure out what's what. I overfilled adding more water. Thinking it's too high to be efficient or perhaps safe (?) I want to drain some water. (It's 4/5 the way up with the boiler off). I assume the drain is directly below glass tube but counterclockwise seems to turn a bit with nothing happening. Turned 'closed' (original position) and unsure if assumption is correct or valve is faulty.
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Comments

  • FredFred Posts: 2,059Member ✭✭✭
    Drain valve

    The drain valve is the small one below the water gauge. If it won't open or opens but does not drain water, it is probably plugged up with crud. When is the last time you drained some water out of the boiler? You probably should drain a gallon or so out monthly to keep the crud out of the bottom of the boiler/mud leg. If it is not functioning, you may want to wait for a break in the weather and when the boiler water has cooled down and try to drain the boiler, replace that valve and open up the mud leg at the bottom on the boiler. In the meantime, it looks like the valve (with the blue handle) next to the water gauge is below the water level and, if it is working, you can use it to bring the water level down. Be careful! you don't want to scald yourself with boiling water and/or steam!
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  • BobCBobC Posts: 2,757Member ✭✭✭
    Lower down

    on the boiler, where the system return is there is a valve with a hose fitting on it. First make sure both valves on the gauge glass are open  (full CCW) Put a pan or a bucket under that and open the valve. When the water level in the glass is right turn that valve back off and you should be ok.



    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
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  • ShineShine Posts: 4Member
    The two valves

    Been here two years and haven't but had the boiler serviced the first year. Opened up the small valve - the one 8 inches below the glass tube - and nothing - so must be clogged up.

    Turning it back to closed and it blew right past. Now just turns in either direction. Did open the larger blue valve to the right of the glass. Opens a ways and a tiny bit of black black water seeps out. Closed that one up again.
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  • ShineShine Posts: 4Member
    Return?

    Found the return I'm thinking. If the knobs above and below the glass valve need to be all the way ccw, and they are both one very tight (I tried a bit) but not moving, I hate to bust another valve.
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  • ShineShine Posts: 4Member
    4/5 too full?

    Maybe it's not so avid that it's 4/5 full? I will need to fix that valve but seems to be running ok. (I did flip the boiler back on and watching...)
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  • BobCBobC Posts: 2,757Member ✭✭✭
    edited February 2014
    If you did not close the valve

    assume it is open, until proven wrong. the valve you show will lower the water level.



    However there should also be a drain valve on the boiler itself. The one you found will work but see if you can find another. Breaking a valve is a PITA but it's important that all valves work; when the heating season is over do whatever has to be done to be sure all valves are operational.



    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
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  • Double DDouble D Posts: 81Member
    Sight glass side.

    Below your sight glass is a boiler drain. It looks like it has a hose bib cap on it. Make sure the drain is closed, take the cap off and open the boiler drain turning counter clockwise slowly. If it's not plugged, the water should come out.
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  • FredFred Posts: 2,059Member ✭✭✭
    Probably the valve handle

    I suspect the valve handle is stripped and just spinning on the valve stem. That type valve is famous for that. I don't know why they put them on boilers. Take the screw out of the center of the handle and lift it off of the stem. Then take a pair of pliers and try to turn the valve open. If you get it open, drain water out until it runs fairly clean (probably should be a weak tea color), close the valve and bring the water level up to normal level.

    It sounds like you have some maintenance to do in the spring. At a minimum the valves should be replaced and I'd be inclined to drain and skim the boiler, get the valves at the top and bottom of the sight glass working. They may seem unimportant now but if that glass were to break, in the dead of winter and in the middle of the night, it would be nice to shut those valves off and maintain heat until the next day when it can be replaced.
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