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Debris in our radiant heat system

My husband has designed an amazing system from PEX tubing for our radiant heating.  He used copper tubing in the design.  The mixing valves continue to get clogged up with turquoise colored debris, (copper sulfite maybe?!), and the system can't work with all the clogs.  He added a strainer to get that debris out before it hits the mixing valves.  Will this copper debris continue or is it because this is a new creation?  What else can we do?  Thanks from patient wife!
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Comments

  • IronmanIronman Posts: 2,161Member ✭✭✭
    Not following you

    Did he pipe it in pex or copper? Is it an open or closed system?



    Can you post some pics of it?
    Bob Boan







    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
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  • DerheatmeisterDerheatmeister Posts: 946Member
    edited February 2014
    System Fluid..

    Did you clean the system before you commissioned it ?

    Does your PEX have a Oxygen barrier?

    Are you on a well or city water.. Do you have a softener for make up water?

    System Fluid is very misunderstood...just add water..

    I recommend taking a sample and starting with a simple PH test...You can obtain these PH strips for a Spa/Pool supplier.

    Depending on system components you shall adjust the PH to match it..

    The following PH levels apply to different materials depending on the purity thereof :

    CU: from 8 to 9

    316 Stainless: 6 to 8

    Cast iron: 8 to 12

    Aluminium:7 to 8.5 depending on recommended manufactures specs..

    If you have a combination of these materials the key is to find a healthy balance of PH..

    i.e. Copper pipe/Stainless boiler/cast circulating pumps= PH of 8...

    I cannot "see" the system...But i would start with a system Flush followed by a system cleaner, let this circulate for a couple days followed by a flush and a adjustment/ treatment if needed..

    There is much more to this subject: i.e. Total Dissolved Solids /Conductivity of the fluid/ Total dissolved Oxygen.. I'd just start with a PH test..

    Hope this helped.. Richard
    Post edited by Derheatmeister on
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  • patientwifepatientwife Posts: 4Member
    Thank you Richard

    Much appreciated info!

    We are on a well, our water hardness is within tolerance.  We will do a PH strip test to see where we are.  System flush is out of the question due to the high price of the antifreeze per gallon used, ie $20.00 per gallon.  We have a 50/50 mix, a volume of 20 gallons.

    Grateful for the time you took to help us.  Will keep you posted!
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  • Larry WeingartenLarry Weingarten Posts: 982Member ✭✭✭
    question

    Hello:  What is the heat source for the system?  Is it a boiler, or a water heater?



    Yours,  Larry
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  • patientwifepatientwife Posts: 4Member
    Tankless water heater

    We are using a 199,000 BTU tankless water heater.
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  • patientwifepatientwife Posts: 4Member
    edited February 2014
    Tankless water heater

    We are using a 199,000 BTU tankless water heater.
    Post edited by patientwife on
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  • DerheatmeisterDerheatmeister Posts: 946Member
    Why a Instant Water heater vs. a Boiler?

    ........
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  • nicholas bonham-carternicholas bonham-carter Posts: 5,482Member ✭✭✭
    edited February 2014
    Any results to post on this?

    I hope we can hear the end of the story, and that it will be happy for you.

    Be careful of that green slime as it may contain some very toxic bacteria, (legionella of legionnaires disease), and that if your hot water come out of this system, you are taking a great risk anytime you have a shower.--NBC
    Post edited by nicholas bonham-carter on
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  • DerheatmeisterDerheatmeister Posts: 946Member
    DHW/Heat

    NBC..

    She said that they installed Glycol.. So not mixed.....

    Personally.. I still do not like to see the usage of a Waterheater as a heat source for multiple reasons but at least they did not endanger them self's by combining both in a "Open system"....
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