To get email notification when someone adds to a thread you're following, click on the star in the thread's header and it will turn yellow; click again to turn it off. To edit your profile, click on the gear.
The Wall has a powerful search engine that will go all the way back to 2002. Use "quotation marks" around multiple-word searches. RIGHT-CLICK on the results and choose Open Link In New Window so you'll be able to get back to your results. Happy searching!
In fairness to all, we don't discuss pricing on the Wall. Thanks for your cooperation.

Honeywell Zone Valve failure. Hydronic oil fired boiler

MacMac Posts: 13Member
The about two weeks ago, we came back from being out for the day and found the house was 80 degrees.  After checking the thermostat to see that it wasn't the cause, I found that the Honeywell V8043 zone valve was stuck in the open position.  With a screwdriver and force I was able to start moving the valve so it would at least move.



Since I'd read that the motors were commonly the reason for failure, I replaced the motor from one of the zones that is unused at the moment (thanks to a coal stove).  The motor didn't help because the resistance to move was too high, so I switched out the whole gearbox head assembly from that unused zone and reinstalled it's motor.  That fixed the problem long enough to order and receive a new valve from Amazon.  It's head has been installed on the failed location.



It seems that the company that installed our Weil McLain WTGO boiler during the summer of 2012 reinstalled the old zone valves that were taken off the 17 year old boiler.  These three Honeywell V8043 valves were supposed to be new according to the contract we and they signed.



I noticed they used the old zone valves and placed sparking new covers on them, because after the original boiler was installed in 1995 with two zones, I installed a third zone in the basement to prevent freezing pipes if it should get cold enough.  When I did this, I marked the top of the valves with a zone number in my handwriting, except, on one, I made a mistake and crossed it out and wrote it again.  This, because they were near the ceiling and were hard to write on.



So, when I removed the failed zone valve, there was my handwriting on it.  I had to use a mirror to check the others, because they were installed even closer to the ceiling on the new boiler.



My question is, does the ball valve inside the valve fitting wear out as well?  It appears to be a round plug covered in rubber that opens and closes.  The seal is not leaking at this time and currently the valve is working.  But, if it's near failure, too, I'd just as well replace that part of it, too, since I did receive that part when I ordered the new one.



I don't want this company to come near our boiler.  There were other issues that were red flags, too, such as installation of obviously old used shutoff valves, and failure to set up the burner after installing it.  Assemble it… see if it starts… it does… clean up and go home.  I had to call them back to adjust the efficiency and check co, co2, smoke, etc.  They told me the manufacturer knows best how to set them up, and they usually don't need any adjustment.



I just want it to be reliable.  I'm already going to change out the heads on the  other zone valves.  But, I just wonder if it's really necessary to change the ball valve part, too, which will require draining the system.  Other than the failed zone valve, it's worked well for the year and a half it's been running.
· ·

Comments

  • JStarJStar Posts: 2,505Member ✭✭✭
    Zone Valves

    You should be able to find the whole assembly with the motor and plunger arm together.
    - Joe Starosielec
    732-494-4357
    j.star@thatcherhvac.com
    http://thatcherhvac.com
    http://facebook.com/thatcherhvac

    Guaranteed performance. Guaranteed energy savings.
    Serving all of NJ, NYC, Southern NY State, and eastern PA.
    Consultation anywhere.
    · ·
  • Honeywell Zone Valves

    You should check the date code on the round motor of the operator to see for certain if they replaced the valves.  I've seen it happen to leave the old cover on the new valve so they don't have to re-write the information.  The last two numbers will be the year manufactured.



    I've replaced many operators over the years (two just today), but I've never had to replace the entire valve. They are extremely reliable.



    By the way, they sell just the operator by itself: Honeywell 40003916-026 (wire leads) and also the motor by itself: Honeywell 802360JA.
    Often wrong, never in doubt.
    · ·
  • MacMac Posts: 13Member
    edited January 2014
    Honeywell Zone Valve failure. Hydronic oil fired boiler

    Thank you for your fast replies. 



    The only numbers stamped on the zone valves are 9214, which,if it is a date code would indicate 1992, wouldn't it, because 2014 hadn't occured when the new boiler was installed in 2012.  The second zone valve had the numbers F6-9402, which if is a date code would indicate 1994.  The third zone valve, which I installed in 1999, has the number F3-9941.



    I wrote the zone information in felt tip pen on the top cover part of the head assembly.  This part is attached to the head assembly and is not part of the removable cover.  The removable covers did indeed look new.  But they did not match the dusty stained look of the actual valve assembly itself.  The failure was in the gear shaft that connects a gear to the valve lever. (the shaft bearing that connects to the valve itself)



    I did purchase the entire valve assembly.  But, only used the head and motor assembly because I didn't want to unbolt the valve ball part because this would entail draining the system.  I found the cost difference between just the valve head and the entire complete valve was only different by about five dollars, so I purchased the entire valve.  This way I have the part I didn'nt use for future use.
    · ·
  • Yes,

    sorry about the date code.



    Sounds as though you are right on track to replace the operator. 



    I'd be interested to find out if anyone has had problems with the valve.
    Often wrong, never in doubt.
    · ·
  • shadow6191shadow6191 Posts: 3Member
    I have four of these valves in our heating system and I know they were installed back in 1975... so they are over 40 years old. I am only now having to replace a motor part on the valve that sees the most action... it's starting to hum and not opening the valve very fast. My experience has been that these are VERY reliable.
    · ·
  • hot rodhot rod Posts: 3,942Member ✭✭✭
    The o ring around the shaft seal eventually lose lubrication. Same for the various bushings. Rebuild the entire top end would be best
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    The magic is in hydronics, and hydronics is in me
    · ·
  • shadow6191shadow6191 Posts: 3Member
    Good to know... thanks for the pointers
    · ·
  • icesailoricesailor Posts: 7,265Member ✭✭✭✭
    "" The only numbers stamped on the zone valves are 9214, which,if it is a date code would indicate 1992, wouldn't it, because 2014 hadn't occured when the new boiler was installed in 2012. The second zone valve had the numbers F6-9402, which if is a date code would indicate 1994. The third zone valve, which I installed in 1999, has the number F3-9941.""

    Heatinghelp keeps locking up and sometimes locking up my entire computer causing a crash. Its getting to be many times a day now.

    I started this this AM.

    A Date Code of 9214 usually means week 14 of 1992. F6-9402 is usually the second week of 1902.

    The date code of F3-9941 is usually week 41 of 1999.

    The F3 &F6 are probably different manufacturing faciclities.

    FWIW.
    · ·
  • EmpireEmpire Posts: 2,291Member ✭✭✭
    I personally have had very few if any that had build up of debris which would cause the ball to be impeded. Usually the gear mechanism wares and becomes tough to move freely. Newer gen. HW zone valves can have the heads changed with little effort and is basically good as new as long as the ball inside the body is free. Easily tested after the head is removed, moving back and fourth to see if you feel any resistance in movement like I said I have not run across many. Seems like you solved the problem, good job...


    Mike T.
    · ·
Sign In or Register to comment.

Welcome

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!