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Honeywell Zone Valve failure. Hydronic oil fired boiler
The about two weeks ago, we came back from being out for the day and found the house was 80 degrees. After checking the thermostat to see that it wasn't the cause, I found that the Honeywell V8043 zone valve was stuck in the open position. With a screwdriver and force I was able to start moving the valve so it would at least move.
Since I'd read that the motors were commonly the reason for failure, I replaced the motor from one of the zones that is unused at the moment (thanks to a coal stove). The motor didn't help because the resistance to move was too high, so I switched out the whole gearbox head assembly from that unused zone and reinstalled it's motor. That fixed the problem long enough to order and receive a new valve from Amazon. It's head has been installed on the failed location.
It seems that the company that installed our Weil McLain WTGO boiler during the summer of 2012 reinstalled the old zone valves that were taken off the 17 year old boiler. These three Honeywell V8043 valves were supposed to be new according to the contract we and they signed.
I noticed they used the old zone valves and placed sparking new covers on them, because after the original boiler was installed in 1995 with two zones, I installed a third zone in the basement to prevent freezing pipes if it should get cold enough. When I did this, I marked the top of the valves with a zone number in my handwriting, except, on one, I made a mistake and crossed it out and wrote it again. This, because they were near the ceiling and were hard to write on.
So, when I removed the failed zone valve, there was my handwriting on it. I had to use a mirror to check the others, because they were installed even closer to the ceiling on the new boiler.
My question is, does the ball valve inside the valve fitting wear out as well? It appears to be a round plug covered in rubber that opens and closes. The seal is not leaking at this time and currently the valve is working. But, if it's near failure, too, I'd just as well replace that part of it, too, since I did receive that part when I ordered the new one.
I don't want this company to come near our boiler. There were other issues that were red flags, too, such as installation of obviously old used shutoff valves, and failure to set up the burner after installing it. Assemble it… see if it starts… it does… clean up and go home. I had to call them back to adjust the efficiency and check co, co2, smoke, etc. They told me the manufacturer knows best how to set them up, and they usually don't need any adjustment.
I just want it to be reliable. I'm already going to change out the heads on the other zone valves. But, I just wonder if it's really necessary to change the ball valve part, too, which will require draining the system. Other than the failed zone valve, it's worked well for the year and a half it's been running.