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Hot water baseboard heating

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Comments

  • SWEI
    SWEI Member Posts: 7,356
    Step One

    Also known as the Room By Room Heat Loss.  Recommended roughly 500 posts ago.
  • Eastman
    Eastman Member Posts: 927
    edited February 2014
    wasn't this done eventually

    and everything came out good?



    More importantly, I'm afraid if everyone did a correct room by room heat loss as the first step, there would be no heatinghelp wall.
  • Jean-David Beyer
    Jean-David Beyer Member Posts: 2,666
    The oil heat was quick

    In my house, with a mod-con heating a radiant slab at grade, and some oversized baseboard heating the other zone, changing the temperature one degree in the radiant zone takes about 24 hours, and in the baseboard zone, at least 4 hours.



    This is not  because of the fact that anything is under radiated, but because the way the system is designed and programmed. Actually, the boiler is about twice as big as it needs to be and I could heat this house to just about any temperature I want it to be, as long as I do not mess around with the settings.



    The reason I can raise the temperature so slowly is because the outdoor reset is programmed to provide only a tiny bit more heat than the heat loss (and this excess only to deal with imponderables such as higher than normal wind and resulting infiltration, and lower than normal heating from the sunshine).



    My boiler does have a boost feature where if the load is not satisfied in a certain period of time, it boosts the supply 10F and tries that. If the time expires and it has still not satisfied the thermostat, it boosts the supply another 10F, etc., until it does. There is a limit to how much it will boost the supply temperature. But to run the system normally, that boost interval needs to be a couple of hours in the baseboard zone, and over 12 hours for the radiant zone, so I just abandoned the idea of using setbacks at all.



    As a homeowner, I conclude that if you want to make the outdoor reset work best (at least for a mod-con), you do not want to run setback at all. Get your efficiency from the reset (and condensing), and forget about setbacks. If you want your bedroom cooler than the other rooms, shut the door of the bedroom and adjust the hot water flow through it to be a lower temperature all the time. I do that by partly closing the valve supplying the hot water to that room.
  • CMadatMe
    CMadatMe Member Posts: 3,086
    Time for

    This system to be reversed engineering. Start from scratch with heat loss, capable emitter capacity, etc and then see what should actually have been installed and then see at what design temp the existing equipment begins to tap out.
    "The bitter taste of a poor installation remains much longer than the sweet taste of the lowest price."
  • quack24
    quack24 Member Posts: 74
    scrolling down is getting old

    Just posting so I can subscribe and not have to scroll down every time
  • knotgrumpy
    knotgrumpy Member Posts: 211
    End of Winter

    Well, the end of winter is here.  How did you eventually make out with your boiler/insulation issues?



    Please let us know and post on this new thread:



    http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/149611/Hot-water-baseboard-heating-new-old-thread
  • ryguyheat
    ryguyheat Member Posts: 2
    In layman's terms: Your supplys and returns are tied into the wrong side of the boiler loop. Your 2 supplys with the pumps on them need to connect to the side of the tee that goes to the front (supply) tapping on the alpine. Your 2 returns with the purge setups need to connect to the side of the tee that connects to the boiler pump and the back (return) tapping on the alpine. This is your entire problem and I cannot believe this was an 18 page thread on a heating help website. Sorry I didn't see this picture online sooner.
  • Harvey Ramer
    Harvey Ramer Member Posts: 2,239
    ryguyheat said:

    In layman's terms: Your supplys and returns are tied into the wrong side of the boiler loop. Your 2 supplys with the pumps on them need to connect to the side of the tee that goes to the front (supply) tapping on the alpine. Your 2 returns with the purge setups need to connect to the side of the tee that connects to the boiler pump and the back (return) tapping on the alpine. This is your entire problem and I cannot believe this was an 18 page thread on a heating help website. Sorry I didn't see this picture online sooner.

    That, my friend, was addressed on the very first page.
    IronmanCanuckerZman
  • ryguyheat
    ryguyheat Member Posts: 2
    My point is that should have been the only thing addressed. Instead of everyone confusing the guy with pump curves etc.
  • Harvey Ramer
    Harvey Ramer Member Posts: 2,239
    Read the entire thread. There was a lot more going on with the system and domestic water. It is a good read and as always, a lot of tidbits to be picked up along the way.
  • RobG
    RobG Member Posts: 1,850
    Not to mention, the post is from November 2014!