To get email notification when someone adds to a thread you're following, click on the star in the thread's header and it will turn yellow; click again to turn it off. To edit your profile, click on the gear.
The Wall has a powerful search engine that will go all the way back to 2002. Use "quotation marks" around multiple-word searches. RIGHT-CLICK on the results and choose Open Link In New Window so you'll be able to get back to your results. Happy searching!
In fairness to all, we don't discuss pricing on the Wall. Thanks for your cooperation.
best all around zone valve? or fuggedhaboudit and use pumps?
i'm a big no zone valve guy. a pump for every circuit is how i've built most systems. stubborn, sick of those old wax motor TACO's with replacement heads that cost the same as a new valve, etc. sick of rusted stuck honeywells.
of course why aren't i sick of pumps where the cartridges cost the same as a new pump. but you usually have good isolation at the pump these days and replacement isn't bad and i would tee across so i could use a good pump to run a circuit where the pump had gone, etc.
got a low ceiling job where there are some zone valves in place already but 3 new zones going on and wanted to set it up nicely and the valves would go in horizontal. i guess i could put pumps on each new circuit in old fashioned but felt like it might be worth joining the modern era.
and it feels like there ought to be enough unit demand that a zone valve ought to cost less than a pump which would be another thing in its favor.
obviously with the advent of delta p and delta t pumps maybe the argument is that you can save enough electricity when fewer zones are open that it is worth investing in one expensive pump and cheaper zones valves but this isn't a regulated fire boiler so i'd have to run some kind of primary loop, which means two pumps. of course the primary is going to be short and shouldn't take a lot to keep it circulating, on the other hand good circulation is so required in the primary that i've often seen guys just slap a standard 007 or something on anyway so where is the electric savings in that approach or is there a lower draw pump more appropriate to that kind of service?
thinking outloud, i suppose i could make the primary include the storage hotwater heater so anytime it is running its making hot water and tap the secondaries before the hot water load, but that could overheat the hotwater in heating season. guess i could add a mixing valve.
the house itself has just been spray insulated but the heat is standard issue 1970s baseboard. might be running a bit of a setback but there isn't enough element to get aggressive with setback motif.
with the new insulation and limited square footage, there is probably only so much more efficiency to milk out of the the thing so reliable operation is probably as important as efficiency gains from complicating matters, but maybe since there is going to be a hot water storage heater and the boiler can't handle condensing temperatures its a decent plan to keep that on the primary.
so , if i were to come to my senses and learn to love zone valves, what valves do you like for long reliable service at rational cost.
PS - i'm going in there. wicked witch or no wicked witch. i'm doin it for dorothy. i only want you to do one thing. talk me out of it and i'll go back to all pumps . . . which i could still do with the primary secondary approach.