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Copper Riser Piping and Support

DaveDave Posts: 187Member ✭✭
I'm replacing some galvanized piping in an older home that formerly had Sloan Valve toilets. I'm planning on using Type L copper. Have heard that Type M is a bit thin.



My main quesition is how to PROPERLY support and anchor the copper vertical riser piping between studs? This will be for hot and cold supplies to a 2nd floor bath from basement. I'm opening up plaster walls. After the work is complete, I don't want to have to go back in. Thanks, David
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Comments

  • bob youngbob young Posts: 2,154Member ✭✭✭
    RISERS

    I GUESS BY YOUR QUERRY YOU ARE A DO-IT YOURSELFER.  RISER CLAMPS  OR PIPE RESTS HAVE BEEN USED TO SUPPORT RISERS  FOR OVER A HUNDRED YEARS.  KINDORF & CLAMPS ARE ALSO VERY SERIOUS SUPPORT COMPONENTS. FIRE WATCH IS A MUST .
    · ·
  • jonny88jonny88 Posts: 736Member ✭✭✭
    agree with bob

    I like kindorf and kindorf clamps.a?though and no offense intended if you are unsure how to support your pipe or which kind of copper to use why not call a plumber.again firewatch is important if you are uncertain.good luck
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  • icesailoricesailor Posts: 7,265Member ✭✭✭✭
    Support the Type "L" Copper:

    Are there any codes that allow Type "M" copper on Potable Water?

    I've used "Van Hangers" or "F&M" rings and plates. And those plastic through the hole hangers, in the holes to stop pipe rubbing and crabby customers that complain about pipe expansion at night when they are trying to sleep.
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  • jonny88jonny88 Posts: 736Member ✭✭✭
    m copper

    believe it or not ny state allows m copper on potable water.
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  • icesailoricesailor Posts: 7,265Member ✭✭✭✭
    Type "M" Copper:

    Believe it or not, there was a short period when Type "M" was legal to use in Massachusetts. Only the cheapest of the cheap used it. That doesn't mean it is a good idea to use it.

    30 year old "M" tube on potable water can be difficult to cut without squashing it.

    At least if was when I had to replace some of it for leaking in aggressive water.
    · ·
  • ChrisJChrisJ Posts: 3,461Member ✭✭✭
    L, M, K

    That's kind of funny.

    When I ripped out all of the galvanized pipe in this house and redid it in copper I used only type L.   The reason I used L over M was it was more expensive and thicker.  That combined with the guy at Lowes saying most guys use M and it's fine was enough.  I usually do the opposite of what people at Lowes and Home Depot say and it seems to work out.



    I've looked into type K copper, but not sure on its uses at this point.
    Weil-McLain EG-40 connected to 392sqft of radiation via two 2" risers into a 3" drop header and 2" equalizer. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment Typical operating pressure 0.5 - 1.0 inch wc.

    Steam system pictures updated 1/25/15.
    https://picasaweb.google.com/thetube0a3/Boiler?authkey=Gv1sRgCImUxIqv9436MQ#

    Don't push the envelope, eliminate it.
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  • bob youngbob young Posts: 2,154Member ✭✭✭
    K TYPE

    K type copper is usually required for underground work& subsurface water service piping. in nyc anyway. some engineers spec it out for all domestic water piping. ny telephone required it on one project i did for them. next step up is T.P. w/ brazed joints. then you got a job. wall thickness

    is .065
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  • ChrisJChrisJ Posts: 3,461Member ✭✭✭
    Type K

    Thank you for responding Mr Young.
    Weil-McLain EG-40 connected to 392sqft of radiation via two 2" risers into a 3" drop header and 2" equalizer. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment Typical operating pressure 0.5 - 1.0 inch wc.

    Steam system pictures updated 1/25/15.
    https://picasaweb.google.com/thetube0a3/Boiler?authkey=Gv1sRgCImUxIqv9436MQ#

    Don't push the envelope, eliminate it.
    · ·
  • bob youngbob young Posts: 2,154Member ✭✭✭
    k

    my pleasure, chris.
    · ·
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