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Fixture angle stop valve best strategy for copper?

marktmarkt Posts: 24Member
A while ago I went to repair a leaky compression angle stop on 1/2" copper. The copper pipe was messed up from people over-tightening, compression ring dinged pipe, etc. Now too short to cut off to get to clean pipe section. Tricky to sweat such a short pipe, cramped space, etc.. leaky stop valve ended up annoying multi-hour job.



I am about to trim out my own new house fixtures and wondering about the best approach. Thought about sweating on threaded fitting and using threaded angle stops.



Any thoughts on best approach, taking the long-term view?
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Comments

  • jonny88jonny88 Posts: 530Member ✭✭
    ips

    rough out with female 90.install blk nipple and cap.when you come back to finish,remove blk nipple and install brass nipple with ips angle valve.
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  • bob youngbob young Posts: 2,145Member ✭✭✭
    fixture control stop technique

    or rough out with 6 or 8 copper stub & sweat on male adadter w/ QUALITY 1/2"  or 3/8 " angle stop.
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  • Wayne HeidWayne Heid Posts: 49Member
    Brasscraft CS40 & CS41

    Brasscraft makes a stop with a 5" extension and bell escutcheon for sweating onto a 1/2" copper stubout. Rough it in with about a 6" stubout w/ cap. On finish just cut off the cap and slide the stop with extension over the copper to within an inch of the wall. Solder the extension and slide the bell escutcheon up to the wall. Very clean and neat. No exposed copper. The CS40 is an angle stop and the CS41 is straight.
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