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Against the Plywood?

JavelinJavelin Posts: 48Member
Heating Pros, I've got my plywood up for my new boiler install, but am now wondering best practices for attaching the pipe as needed. In researching installs and poring over photos, I see that some installers attach the pipe to the plywood with standard copper pipe straps, while others use "Van Hangers" (http://www.pexsupply.com/Van-Hangers-13714000), while still others use some sort of rail system (see attached photo) that I'm not sure the name of.



I presume that the latter two options give more installation flexibility as they allow some depth adjustment and would allow more "layers" of pipe as needed for the install. Can anyone weigh into the best method and why? Also, if someone can provide me some keywords and links to investigate/price the "rail" system in the attached photo, I'd appreciate it.. Just need a starting point.



Thanks in advance!
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Comments

  • bill nyebill nye Posts: 296Member
    Uni-strut

    The metal is called unistrut. I like this method. More options and you can insulate the pipe as opposed to nailing the pipe directly to the plywood.



    Try this link... http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/Ntk-All/Ntt-unistrut/h_d2/Navigation?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
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  • RichRich Posts: 1,045Member ✭✭✭
    edited July 2013
    Unistrut

    is the way .  Use verticals back to back for your headers and and horizontals at different measurements off of board and matching your 2 verticals . This will allow you to offset supplies and returns , keep it neat and use less fittings . If possible use 1/2 rod or bolts to do the attaching as 3/8" is a bit unstable and less rigid .  Should be an example of this method as my profile pic . And here's a picture of another . The space inside the Strut also makes for a real nice wire raceway . Good luck
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    Post edited by Rich on
    You didn't get what you didn't pay for and it will never be what you thought it would .
    Langans Plumbing & Heating LLC 732-751-1560
    Serving most of New Jersey , Eastern Pa .
    Consultation , Design & Installation
    Rich McGrath 732-581-3833
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  • RichRich Posts: 1,045Member ✭✭✭
    edited July 2013
    Unistrut

    Post edited by Rich on
    You didn't get what you didn't pay for and it will never be what you thought it would .
    Langans Plumbing & Heating LLC 732-751-1560
    Serving most of New Jersey , Eastern Pa .
    Consultation , Design & Installation
    Rich McGrath 732-581-3833
    · ·
  • JavelinJavelin Posts: 48Member
    Thank You!

    Thank you all! I'm sure it won't be my last question, but can't tell you how much I appreciate this forum.
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  • gennadygennady Posts: 522Member ✭✭
    edited July 2013
    Support

    We do it like that
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    Post edited by gennady on
    Gennady Tsakh



    Absolute Mechanical Co. Inc.

    www.AbsoluteMechanicalCoInc.com
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  • hot rodhot rod Posts: 3,733Member ✭✭✭
    use the "strut" clamps

    with the rubber inserts, it allows the pipes to move a bit as they expand and contract. It takes the ticking sound out of the pipes if they can squirm a bit in the clamps.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    The magic is in hydronics, and hydronics is in me
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  • zacmobilezacmobile Posts: 211Member
    clamps

    I mostly use Erico Microfix or Mupro clamps. I do use the Unistrut Cush-A-Clamps for big headers or if I have a lot of stuff in a row that I want really solid. I do like the depth flexibility of the Microfix/Mupro though.
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