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Which boiler

SOUPSOUP Member Posts: 2
I am in the process of replacing a boiler in an approximate 2000 square foot house with fin tube. The heat loss is 40,000 and the calculated load is 83100 Btu/h. I have narrowed the boiler down to two choices. 1) Buderus G115WS/3 with Riello 2) Crown Freeport II FWZ080 with Beckett. I have a third option of a leftover Crown Freeport CT-4 Scotch Marine triple pass boiler with Riello that is a little over sized at 105,000 net but has the lowest water volume of 5.5 gallons. They are all in the same price range. Any thoughts and/or suggestions would be appreciated.


  • HomeOwner1HomeOwner1 Member Posts: 134
    TT Challenger?

    What about a Triangle Tube Challenger? When we were researching for our home we heard a lot of good things about Triangle Tube. The challenger is also very inexpensive as well. If the hot water heater is also old, it is enticing. The smaller units sounds like it would be at that heating requirement.
  • ZmanZman Member Posts: 3,175
    edited June 2013
    I assume...

    You have no other choice but oil (or you own an oil well)?

    Here is a handy tool to help evaluate fuel costs.

    As far as sizing goes, the heat loss number is the one to look at. You certaininly do not want an oversized unit, particularly a low volume oversized. The short cycling will be amplified.‎

    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
    Albert Einstein
  • My Favorite Boiler

    Is Utica, made in upstate New York, by the same family for about 100 years. I have installed a few Tri- Fire oil boilers and they worked out great. Utica makes a great boiler with outstanding customer support. But the best choice might be the one your contractor likes and is comfortable installing. Thanks, Bob Gagnon
  • Robert O'BrienRobert O'Brien Member Posts: 2,834
    I'm not following?

    Which is it?

    "The heat loss is 40,000 and the calculated load is 83100 Btu/h"I
    To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.
  • Aaron_in_MaineAaron_in_Maine Member Posts: 307
    edited June 2013

    Maybe he meant the attached load. In that case go with the Buderus and get the logamatic control it will save you money.
    Aaron Hamilton Heating
  • SOUPSOUP Member Posts: 2

    The 83100 is the attached load.
  • ZmanZman Member Posts: 3,175

    You should use the heatloss number to size the boiler.

    The attached load will come into play if you use outdoor reset, particularly in a condensing gas boiler.

    You are stuck with oil, yes?

    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
    Albert Einstein
  • Robert O'BrienRobert O'Brien Member Posts: 2,834
    Attached load?

    Unfortunately that information is completely and utterly useless in boiler sizing
    To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.
  • ChrisChris Member Posts: 3,040
    The Attached Load

    Is based off what? 180 degree water temp with the board btu/hr ouput of 560 btu/hr sqft?

    All that tells me is that you don't need 180 degree water EVER!!!! It would also tell me that you have about 145 linear feet of baseboard in the house...

    Cross the Freeport CT off the list, going to be discontinued, that iron is made for Crown by Viessmann and the introduction of the Freeport FWZ is the reason it is going away. As matter of fact only the CT-ODV is in the newly release June Price Book.

    No matter the oil boiler choice you will never get one in the 40,000 btu/hr range. Find the installer that is going to be installing the boiler correctly and correctly is going to mean installing a buffer tank to prevent the short cycling as much as possible. If the installer isn't providing outdoor reset with his boiler choice another reason to find a different installer.

    In other words, worry more about the installation then the boiler itself!
    "The bitter taste of a poor installation remains much longer than the sweet taste of the lowest price."
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