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brass nipple

radmixradmix Posts: 185Member ✭✭
I'm looking for a brass or stainless steel nipple that's 1/2" x 1 1/4" and 1/2" x 1 3/4" sizes for a particular project. I tried to make one without success. Does anyone know where I can find one.
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Comments

  • TonySTonyS Posts: 840Member ✭✭
    Why

    couldn't you make one?

    You need a nipple adp. If you dont have one.. get one. At the price of nipples today its a short payoff.

    http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Nipple-Chuck-Kit
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  • hot rodhot rod Posts: 3,780Member ✭✭✭
    could you use copper

    solder two male adapters together with a close nipple. You can also find male by street adapters so one goes inside the other to solder close. It leaves you a hex for tightening also.



    Or run a 5/8 drill down the male adapter and hack saw the thread only, off. Then solder a nipple between them



    I know you can buy 3/4 and 1" brass "urinal" adapters, shown here. Maybe 1/2" also?
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    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    The magic is in hydronics, and hydronics is in me
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  • KniggitKniggit Posts: 122Member
    Yep

    We have a couple of those on our shelf at the office.  They are called Marvel threads around these parts
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  • icesailoricesailor Posts: 7,265Member ✭✭✭✭
    Nipple Sizes:

    I don't know what your application is, but I have never had a problem with any nipple getting a few more turns to get to those sizes. Like a 1/2"X 1 3/4" would be a 2" nipple, with Teflon Tape.

    If the "Make-In" for a 1/2" nipple is 1/2" for each side, a 1 1/2" nipple should have 1/2" showing between the fittings. I always have less and need to use a unused nipple to judge the length.

    I have third world nipple holders that I made and I can make any size I want with my Ridgid 1" to 2" ratcheting die stock. I can make 1/2" and 3/4" with an old one piece die stock by flipping the die over and threading from the back while holding the threaded piece in the third world nipple holder. I can make crooked threads on 1" to 2" threads to make crooked nipples. I can't on the sizes less than 1". Its why I never bought the threading add on for my 300 Power Drive.

    Judging by the number of 1/2" nipples and pipes I see tightened with 24" pipe wrenches, I don't understand what your issue is.

    I've made nipples with male and female Copper St. adapters. Some ended up leaking on the soldered parts after time.

    What are you trying to do?
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  • radmixradmix Posts: 185Member ✭✭
    Nipple

      I'm threading a powder coated shower wand into a drop  elbow in a shower. I have to use a rubber strap wrench so I done scratch the surface. If I use a 2" nipple I have a 1/4" gap on the surface and I tried to use a 1 1/2" nipple it buries the fitting to easy and I'm afraid of a leak in the wall that cant be seen.
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  • EricEric Posts: 209Member ✭✭
    your best.

    bet is to make whatever size you need with 2- ½" copper male adaptors and whatever length copper between to make the size up. Fast and accurate..



    done deal...
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  • TonySTonyS Posts: 840Member ✭✭
    Dont jury rig it

    If you dont have a nipple adapter for your machine, take your 1 1/2 and 2 inch nipples and run them into your solid die head using an internal pipe wrench, cut the threads deep about a 1/8 inch on both sides and youll be fine.

    Trying to use a face joint on urinal adapters will just leave you with a hard time if it snaps while trying to tighten it. It appears your situation you have no way to back up. Two hex heads on the adapters will take up more room than the oversize nipple.
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  • MikeyBMikeyB Posts: 692Member ✭✭
    Butt Nipples

    You might want to look for Butt Nipples, a 1/2" Butt nipple is 3/4" long, whereas a 1/2" Close nipple is 1 1/8" long. your local supplier might have them if they are an Old School supply house.
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  • MikeyBMikeyB Posts: 692Member ✭✭
    Nipple

    Just re-read the original post, i thought you needed A 1/2" x 3/4" brass nipple, 1/2" X 1 1/4'" is a shoulder nipple correct? the 1/2" x 1 3/4" you might have to make up like the others have mentioned
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  • hot rodhot rod Posts: 3,780Member ✭✭✭
    edited April 2013
    use a faucet

    socket to screw into the ell if you can, then you won't stress the solder joint like Ice mentioned. 27/32" is the socket that fits.



    Soldered together with a type L nipple from end to end and 97/3 solder.



    I'd be tempted to loctite the end into the ell. As long as you never want to remove it!



    Send me a mailing address and I send them your way on Monday, if you still need them.



    Next time use thicker tile, or rough the lug ell in deeper :)
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    Post edited by hot rod on
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    The magic is in hydronics, and hydronics is in me
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  • TonySTonyS Posts: 840Member ✭✭
    I feel his pain HR

    its like those eccentric union halves on back mount commercial sink faucets. I always stop at tractor supply and grab a bag of 7/8 flat washers to shim the flange 90 behind the sink.. What a pain in the a&%. I also love to see bar faucets with a male shank threaded into a flange 90. By all accounts it should leak like a sieve because the shank is a straight thread, not a pipe thread. Now if I would do it ,it would leak but  somehow hacks make it work, it is beyond me. LOL 
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  • icesailoricesailor Posts: 7,265Member ✭✭✭✭
    Poor planning:

    Another prime example of poor planning on the part of someone else (not you) and they expect you to solve all their problems. While the poor planner collects a 20% commission and you get to spend hours of uncompensated time to come up with a solution for THEIR oversight. While they argue with you on how to fix the problem and not pay you for your experience.

    #1:  The powder coating will fall off. They will call you first.

    #2:  That's what longer nipples with escutcheons are for.

    #3:   After the valve was roughed in by you or others, and after someone went to the trouble to point out where the finish needed to go for the installation, someone decided to do it in a way that was "convenient" for them. Now, it is flucked. For you to fix.



    Back when I used to do new work like that, I would go to great pains to rough the valve in. Plaster grounds in place and at the proper distance. I would draw out instructions on a piece of wood, explain to the contractor and whomever, what needed to be done for the proper installation.

    When I checked before trim out, the plaster ground was in the dumpster, the tile installer added an extra 3/4" spacing to the studs and the escutcheon is tiled in and all the screw holes are filled with grout and behind the tile. Now needing an extension kit that isn't available unless special ordered in oiled pewter with a 6 week wait. And no one is going to pay for the extra. Oh, and the black nipples I pit in as throw always so they could cut the tile holes? In the bottom of the tub where they put a rust spot on the white finish of the shower or tub and the hole is tiled over. And some major tile cutting is needed on small brittle tiles which I am expected to cut without breaking them.

    There's never enough time to do it right. But always time for someone like you or I to do it over.

    3 to 4 wraps of blue monster Teflon tape on each thread will not leak.
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  • MikeLMikeL Posts: 113Member ✭✭
    counter line up

    Radmix:

    I've had sucesss lining up all the nipples in stock at the supply house; often you can find a nipple 1/4" longer or shorter than the advertised length.

    I have used hot rods 5/8 " drill out" of a male adapter to create a slip adapter for various uses. Most recently I needed a male thread 1/2" from a finished tile wall to install an ips tub spout that had been roughed - in with copper tubing........
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  • icesailoricesailor Posts: 7,265Member ✭✭✭✭
    Painless

    Try this. I've done it for years.

    A piece of 3/4" wood strapping, 16" long or so. Either 1/2" copper tube clips with zip screws or 1/2" copper "Van" hangers clipped to the pipe and after you have the correct nipples in place, push the strapping up the back of the sink. It will pull the escutcheons tight to the back if the sink.

    Use Teflon Tape on the threads so you can get them back off someday.
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  • radmixradmix Posts: 185Member ✭✭
    success

     Thanks for the replies. I did what Hot Rod said and drilled out a 1/2" male adaptor with a 5/8" bit and cut the threads off then soldered a nipple to the proper length. Always a help guys.



    Rich
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  • Charlie from wmassCharlie from wmass Posts: 3,193Member ✭✭✭
    I am still wondering why

    you did not just cut and thread the nipples to length?
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.

    cell # 413-841-6726
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating
    · ·
  • radmixradmix Posts: 185Member ✭✭
    threads

    I cant see how you can make a thread on a 1 1/4" nipple? I have dozens of dies but I cant clamp the nipple and thread the other end.
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  • Charlie from wmassCharlie from wmass Posts: 3,193Member ✭✭✭
    are you using a machine like a 300

    or are you using hand dies? If the first then you make a nipple chuck and thread it. You make a nipple chuck if you are not lucky enough to own a proper own by threading a double length thread on a 6 inch nipple and tightening it into a merchant coupling until you have 3/8" of thread open in the coupling. You then thread your pipe cut to length with one thread cut into the coupling and thread the last end.
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.

    cell # 413-841-6726
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating
    · ·
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