Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Burnham V14 tankless heater cover leak

longbeach
longbeach Member Posts: 2
Hi, I have a Burnham V14 that was installed in '89. It's been working fine but I developed a leak at the tankless heater cover. The gasket is shot and the cover is pretty well rusted also. Is the cover a separate piece or does the cover and the coil come as a whole unit? I have the original literature and it shows a cover plate but lists it as a blank cover plate. It also shows a tankless heater with a cover plate attached. I can see on the old one where the fittings thread into the cover plate, but how does the coil attach to the back side? I would just like to find out what I am getting into before I tackle this job myself. Thanks, Wayne

Comments

  • Aaron_in_Maine
    Aaron_in_Maine Member Posts: 315
    edited March 2013
    One piece

    The tankless coil and cover plate are one piece. If the plate is in real bad shape you might be better off replacing the whole thing. You would be better off to get a pro to do it those bolts are easy to break off in the boiler if rusted bad.
    Aaron Hamilton Heating
    ahheating@ yahoo.com
    (207)229-7717
  • longbeach
    longbeach Member Posts: 2
    Burnham V14 tankless heater cover leak

    OK, thanks Aaron. I'm pretty much used to dealing with rusty, worn out bolts. I won't go into why. But, if it's a straight swap out I feel pretty confident. I'm still on the fence about whether to call a pro though. I deal with a lot of machinery, just not boilers and furnaces. Thanks for the info and the speedy reply.
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    Old rusty bolts:

    If you choose to change it yourself, buy a complete new coil. It comes with the plate and is one unit. Hopefully, it will come with a black rubber gasket instead of a red one. They become as hard as a tar road and will leak in time.

    If you do decide to change it. get a can of Kroil. Spray the bolts every day for some period of time and try to work them loose before you do the swap. I find that nothing I have ever used for bolt rust removing approaches Kroil and I have tried everything made. If you don't have any, or don't know where to get it, you can but it direct from . It is for professional use only and not sold in retail stores.

    I have changed faucets where no part of the install was greased. Years later, I needed to change the faucet and a basin wrench under the sink would not budge a nut. I spray the whole mess with Kroil and come back the next day. The whole thing comes apart.

    Brute Strength breaks things. Finesse gets them apart.
This discussion has been closed.