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Need help identifying trap for replacement parts

Hi Folks. I have two traps that need the guts replaced. The space it too tight for me to attempt to replace the whole trap.

I am using the guide from Barnes and Jones and can't seem to identify enough info to determine which parts I need. I hope you can help.

Trap #1 Milwaukee Valve Co. 1/2" pipe. Existing cover.

B&J chart needs a model # but I cannot find one. Photos attached.
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Comments

  • HowieRaviHowieRavi Posts: 13Member
    edited March 2013
    trap #2

    Trap #2.

    Sarco.

    1/2" pipe.

    H model.

    Same scenario; I am following the B&J guide and do not have enough info to determine which part I need. Seat in? integral seat?

    Photos attached.
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  • moneypitfeedermoneypitfeeder Posts: 228Member
    Depends which type

    You want to replace it with. Most of the replacement traps may or may not look like the original, but are designed to drop in (or screw into the cap or seat) and work with the original housing size.The best resource I've found for trap guts is State Supply, http://www.statesupply.com/steam-traps



    They offer (for your sarco model "H") repair kits, and retro fits. Take a look at the pdf on their site called steam traps order guide. It gives good cross references between which "obsolete" trap you have and what you need to order. The Milwaukee trap has me stumped. Is the Milwaukee maybe an Illinois trap? Those are listed in the charts for most replacement guts. If so than see if you can make out a number on the cap, pic wasn't clear enough for me to tell, but your model number should be stamped on there, maybe a No. 0?
    steam newbie
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  • HowieRaviHowieRavi Posts: 13Member
    Thanks.

    Thank you Moneypitfeeder, the states supply website was real easy to follow. I ordered a repair kit for the Sarco H trap and hope to post some better / additional photos of the Milwakee trap.

    For sure it says Milwakee Valve Co on the top.
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  • moneypitfeedermoneypitfeeder Posts: 228Member
    edited March 2013
    I might have an answer?

    See if any of the model numbers at this link are printed on your cap, (scroll down to MILWAUKEE (MILVACO) THERMOSTATIC)  I pulled this from http://barnesandjones.com/resource/non-top/thermostatic-h-m/  so hopefully you might be able to figure out which one to replace it with. (I tried to post the table but it didn't display correctly) Good luck!
    steam newbie
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  • moneypitfeedermoneypitfeeder Posts: 228Member
    A bit of caution

    As a homeowner, I feel I should also give you my 2 cents on trap replacement. I had originally ordered the kind that have the spring on top and just "drop in", and I could not find a way to install the cap that didn't make that darn assembly spin when pressure (from the cap that was applied). That resulted in grinding down the seat portion at an angle due to the threads of the cap I can only guess being coarse and wide. (the assy was spinning on the inside with the cap turning in.) I ended up using Tunstall capsule type cartridges that threaded into where the original seat was. (side note, I am a certified mechanic, I didn't "wrench down" on the caps, I screwed them in by hand only, with a final tightening by wrench) Maybe a pro can chime in and offer advice, but I had much better luck with the kind that threaded into the seat and didn't touch the cap.
    steam newbie
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  • HowieRaviHowieRavi Posts: 13Member
    better photo of the Milwaukee trap cap

    I can find no model info anywhere on this trap.
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  • HowieRaviHowieRavi Posts: 13Member
    trap cap

    additional photos
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  • moneypitfeedermoneypitfeeder Posts: 228Member
    here's a pdf

    That is actually here on the Wall, http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CDMQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.heatinghelp.com%2Ffiles%2Farticles%2F1374%2F316.pdf&ei=n4o7UdqAKfCo0AGGwICQCw&usg=AFQjCNG8bKNDd4heN_q8sB3RVRKSpr0d-w&bvm=bv.43287494,d.dmQ that shows in a diagram a fin style rad like you have and a Type V thermostatic trap installed. This publication was printed before the patent was received. So, I think that you might have one of the "V" models, but I really can't be certain. Milwaukee is still in business, they just don't do traps anymore, but they could probably ID the trap for, their number is Ph.: 262-432-2700

    , site http://www.milwaukeevalve.com/contact.asp
    steam newbie
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  • ChrisJChrisJ Posts: 3,668Member ✭✭✭
    Confused

    Shouldn't the trap be on the low side of the convector?
    Weil-McLain EG-40 connected to 392sqft of radiation via two 2" risers into a 3" drop header and 2" equalizer. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment Typical operating pressure 0.5 - 1.0 inch wc.

    Steam system pictures updated 1/25/15.
    https://picasaweb.google.com/thetube0a3/Boiler?authkey=Gv1sRgCImUxIqv9436MQ#

    Don't push the envelope, eliminate it.
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  • moneypitfeedermoneypitfeeder Posts: 228Member
    totally missed that!

    I wasn't even looking for "issues" just trying to id components! However, if you look at the shadow line in the pic of the fin rad, it does look like the supply end has dropped considerably. (I'm spitballing here) But it almost looks like it (the rad) was originally almost level, which might have been how it was originally piped. 
    steam newbie
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  • HowieRaviHowieRavi Posts: 13Member
    pitch off

    Yes, I had noticed that as well. Next time I have the cover off I will see if there is any play in the pipe, maybe it just fell?

    Aside from that, how important is this issue?
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  • MhollisMhollis Posts: 9Member
    Model 0

    I believe its a model 0 measure the thread diameter mine was 1 7/8. Gerry Gill helped me identify mine.
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  • HowieRaviHowieRavi Posts: 13Member
    measuring thread diameter

    Hi, I never measured the thread diameter before. Could you give some additional guidance? from exactly what point to exactly what point? Thank you.



    BTW: no movement in the pipes. not sure how/why the pitch was changed over time.
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  • MhollisMhollis Posts: 9Member
    Threads

    When you flip the cap over it is threaded where it screws back into the body, the distance across that is what I am talking about that will tell you that the new cap will screw into the body bj 2953 with new cap is what I bought.
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  • moneypitfeedermoneypitfeeder Posts: 228Member
    edited March 2013
    also

    If your really having a hard time, take the cap to a sears (or other tool store), if yours carries something like this http://www.sears.com/gages-ga-44c-55-degree-whitworth-screw-pitch/p-SPM7111998208?prdNo=12&blockNo=12&blockType=G12, you can (as long as the tool isn't encased in plastic!) measure it and easily know what your thread is. The thread gage has teeth that mesh into the threads and when you find the perfect fit you can read which one it is, kinda like a go/no-go gage. I have one in my arsenal of tools and have found it to be very useful. Who doesn't want more tools? Hope you can figure it out, funny how some of the "easy" things can be so difficult. BTW once you do figure it out, you might want to do yourself and any future homeowner the benefit of using an etcher to etch in the model number of the trap into the cap, just a thought...
    steam newbie
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This discussion has been closed.

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