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Warmboard vs. HeatPly Radiant Heat

We're building a 1200 sq. foot art studio and want radiant heat.  One manufacturer, Warmboard, uses aluminum as part of their design, whereas HeatPly, the other manufacturer, does not but has more tubing spaced more closely.  We're wondering if anyone has an opinion about the pros and cons of these two products.

Thanks in advance.



  • GordyGordy Member Posts: 6,444
    That's why

    Warm boards tubing centers are 12" because of the aluminum it spreads the heat evenly.

    So when comparing figure the extra cost of tubing and transfer plates to compare apples to apples, and the labor to lay it if you are not doing it yourself.

    Never heard anyone complain about warm board.
  • GordyGordy Member Posts: 6,444
    edited February 2013
  • jonny88jonny88 Member Posts: 1,139

    that is some pretty neat carpentry skills.any idea how long it took and what tools were used.very impressive
  • GordyGordy Member Posts: 6,444
    tools and Time

    Lets see Jig saw, circular saw, cordless impact.  About 16 man hours for about 320 sf.  8" oc no plates floor warming only. Ceiling radiant dominant emitter in the kitchen.
  • JerrySJerryS Member Posts: 3
    Is an aluminum based radiant heat system signifcantly more energy efficient?

    Thanks. Would the aluminum make the radiant heat system more energy efficient over a system that does not have aluminum?  That is, in a relative small space of 1200 sq. ft.would aluminum allow the system shut down more quickly because it heats up a room faster and could you keep the water temperature lower? The cost difference is significant between ones with aluminum and ones without.
  • GordyGordy Member Posts: 6,444

    Aluminum plates, or sheeted panels will make the emitter more efficient by allowing a lower supply temp, and a faster response time.

    So to answer your question yes.

    You need to do,a,room by room heat loss first though. This will dictate several factors.

    1. The load of the house as a whole.

    2. The load of each room.

    3. Supply temps, and flow rate for the loops feeding each room, or zone.

    4. Whether radiant is feasable for the load on its own, or if supplemental heat is required.

    Control strategy for it all. This means zoning if desired.

    5. Size of boiler to meet these loads. Mod/con being the most efficient choice.

    Side note is floor coverings to consider for floor radiant.

    Low r padding with low r- value carpet.

    Wood floors, which ones welcome installation over radiant which I think is hog wash with a properly controlled low temp situation.
  • pipekingpipeking Member Posts: 252

    i'm not knockin it but, y copper tubing?
  • GordyGordy Member Posts: 6,444

    Knew that was commin.

    My house is built in the early 50's all ceiling, and floor radiant. copper of course. i did this before the price of copper went into orbit, and to keep the house in the era. Plus I like copper it's heat transfer properties are much better than pex.

    I did not due plates because the kitchen already has ceiling radiant which can handle the load on its own. But with tiled floors thought floor warming is a nice touch..... My wife thinks so.
  • pipekingpipeking Member Posts: 252
    bofore copper went imto orbit?

    when, so u bought the copper 20yrs ago!
  • GordyGordy Member Posts: 6,444
    Pipe king

    7 years ago. It may have been expensive then, but it jumped considerably since that time.
  • GordyGordy Member Posts: 6,444

    This house has 5000' of copper tubing and pipe. If the house ever burns down "joking" I got a savings plan in place.
  • keyotekeyote Member Posts: 546
    i did something similar

    I just had home depot rip my plywood into
  • keyotekeyote Member Posts: 546
    i did something similar

    I just had home depot rip my plywood into
  • copperkidcopperkid Member Posts: 22
    Gordy, just Looking at your floor warming copper detail again. NICE!!!

    Hey Gordy now that my addition is wrapping up I plan on routering my floor similiar to yours.  Did you put wonderboard or durock over the tubing and if so was there any kind of barrier between the copper and cement board.  I always use thinset when I use the board.  Would I need to go to 6"centers if this will be used for heating ?Thanks
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