To get email notification when someone adds to a thread you're following, click on the star in the thread's header and it will turn yellow; click again to turn it off. To edit your profile, click on the gear.
The Wall has a powerful search engine that will go all the way back to 2002. Use "quotation marks" around multiple-word searches. RIGHT-CLICK on the results and choose Open Link In New Window so you'll be able to get back to your results. Happy searching!
In fairness to all, we don't discuss pricing on the Wall. Thanks for your cooperation.
Hello, it's coming time to replace the old original boiler in my 1965 home. The current boiler is a Burnham holiday series 1, 100k input, 80k out, 60k ibr on the tag. Boiler is just for heat, separate 40g hot water for domestic.
I think the boiler is WAY oversized. My home is a ranch, 1,150 sq foot main floor, but it does have a full basement below grade, the garage is attached beside the house. Brick with 2x4 insulated walls, attic 2x6 insulated floor with full sheeting floor. Windows are 2009 vinyl that qualified for the tax credit. Using the slant fin app, I calculated the whole house including the basement at a 0* design (Pgh pa) and came up with 36,000 btu heat loss
The baseboards are 9" base rays.
I really like Burnhams ES2-3 boiler. But is the 70k in 51k out still too big?
I do not do any setbacks, I usually set the thermo at 69* in October and never touch it till March. Currently, unless the air temp is below 15* the boiler temp rarely heats above 140* before the call is satisfied. I realize that is due to being 'over radiated', but wouldn't it be better for a smaller boiler to run a bit longer (at a lower btu input) to get to this temp? Now the draft hood barely gets warm before shutting back down.
Also, I plan to line the chimney w/5" and combine the 4" boiler and 3" hot water tank with a 3x4x5 wye, and block off the hot water only stack that is being used now for the hot water tank.
Should I insulate the 5" liner?
Thanksmformany help you can offer.
0 · ·