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Spud removal, did I go too far?

Using the helpful information from previous posts, I attempted to remove a spud plug (love that name!) from a 100 year old cast iron radiator. Yah, well, remove the plug with a wrench and 4 foot pipe didn't work. That plug was NOT going to budge.



I ended up using an angle grinder to cut the end of the plug off. After that, I used my sawzaw and a new blade to cut into the grooves of the spud nut. I made the mistake of going too fast with my second metal blade, which resulted in cuts into the threads (photos attached).



I pressure-tested the radiator before this work, but now I'm concerned that I'll encounter leaks once the new nut is installed. I've read on other forum threads that experienced plumbers have seen the following methods work:



- Pipe dope plus teflon tape

- JB Weld



I'm wondering what methods worked best and which would be best based on the given situation I find myself in.



Many thanks to all you plumber gods out there!



** I should add the reason WHY I removed the plug. I have a gravity system and the plumbing on the previous radiator was on the same side (intake + return). The replacement radiator had the plumbing on either end.
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Comments

  • Paul48Paul48 Posts: 2,499Member ✭✭✭
    edited November 2012
    I'd

    clean the threads on the radiator and new spud with contact cleaner, or dykem remover, then use RTV silicone, and pressure test again.Let it set up over night.
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  • FittingMonkeyFittingMonkey Posts: 16Member
    Would JB Weld be too much?

    Would it be overkill to use JB Weld? Once the radiator is in place, I don't anticipate ever moving it again. I just want to make sure that I'll be able to make a tight seal.



    Thoughts?
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  • FittingMonkeyFittingMonkey Posts: 16Member
    Bushing?

    Curious if a brass bushing would create a better seal since there is a lip that would cover over the area that was cut by the sawzaw? In such a case, I'd just use a smaller valve instead of the 1-1/4" valve I was planning to use.
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  • Paul48Paul48 Posts: 2,499Member ✭✭✭
    I

    don't have much experience with JB Weld. Whichever you choose, clean the mating surfaces well, with something that leaves no residue. Let it set up, cross your fingers and pressure test it. Good Luck
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  • SWEISWEI Posts: 5,066Member ✭✭✭✭
    valve size

    If the supply pipe is smaller than 1-1/4", I'd probably install a black iron reducer bushing with some epoxy (aka JB Weld) -- after a very thorough solvent cleaning, as mentioned above.  Even better would be a carefully welded fillet around the outside of the bushing.  This will enable you to remove and service the valve if the need ever arises.
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  • AFredAFred Posts: 78Member
    edited November 2012
    The right tool for the job.

    The best thing to use is expando (http://www.xpando.com/pjc.html).

    Its not easy to find, 3 out of 4 wholesalers don't stock it. If they do, they probably don't know what it is. Follow the directions and violia, works like a champ.

    -Andrew
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