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New V-stat Header

FJLFJL Posts: 354Member
Asked my steam guy to put a low pressure gauge on the boiler.  When he did, he found that the piping for my v-stat was clogged with sludge.  I can't seem to load all pix in one post, so I'll do them one at a time. 



Here is a picture of the old v-stat header:
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Comments

  • FJLFJL Posts: 354Member
    edited February 2012
    Clogged T

    Here is the clogged T from the old header.  This is on a 4-1/2 year old boiler, mind you.





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  • FJLFJL Posts: 354Member
    edited February 2012
    New Header

    New v-state header:







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  • ERFERF Posts: 26Member
    Nice new Header, but

    ask your installer to turn the pigtail of the VAPORSTAT 90* so the doughnut hole runs front to back.
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  • ERFERF Posts: 26Member
    edited February 2012
    Nice new Header, but

    ask your installer to turn the pigtail of the VAPORSTAT 90* so the doughnut hole runs front to back.
    Post edited by ERF on
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  • FJLFJL Posts: 354Member
    Toward Boiler?

    You mean toward the boiler? I'll ask, but does it make that much difference?
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  • GordoGordo Posts: 366Member ✭✭
    edited February 2012
    Looks Good

    But as ERF says, the controls with Hg need to have the loop of the pigtail be in line so as the loop expands and contracts, it doesn't effect the level of the control from side to side.  It does make a difference.



    I'd also suggest installing a cross-tee in place of regular tee and a plug to allow that section of pipe coming out of the boiler to be cleaned without taking the controls off.



    Put the low pressure gauge on a 1/4" brass tee, nipple and 90 just under the vaporstat, so you can test the pigtail by removing the gauge and blowing into the 90 to see if it is clear.
    Post edited by Gordo on
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  • crash2009crash2009 Posts: 1,484Member
    You have a mercury switch

     on your vaporstat.  The pigtail expands and contracts changing the level of your vaporstat.  Having the loop of the pigtail towards the boiler will reduce the possibility of pigtail swing causing the vaporstat to be inaccurate. 

    Thanks for posting, I have been following your adventures with the vaporstat header for a couple years now, while deciding on how to do my own.  I like yours the best so far.   

    Do you get any vibration with your set up this way? 

    Can you see any advantage to double 45 ing the section from the boiler-out?  My thought is to allow some drainage.
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  • FJLFJL Posts: 354Member
    Vibration

    Funny you should ask. I got home after buying bagels this a.m. and noticed that the boiler had turned on so I went down to check on that and noticed some shaking. Perhaps it did affect the accuracy of the v-stat reading. We set the lever at 16 ozs and it turned off the boiler before the gauge hit 16 ozs. Maybe at 12 or 13 ozs, I really can't recall. We then increased the lever to a little bit above 16 oz -- I don't know if you can tell from the posted photo -- and it cycled off at 15 ozs.



    I didn't really ask my installer about why he configured it that way. I am just a homeowner so I am not entirely sure what you mean by "double 45 ing" or what a different configuration would look like. He did mention that this configuration would allow for easy cleaning of the header.
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  • BobCBobC Posts: 2,595Member ✭✭✭
    Level when hot?

    As long as the vaporstat is level when there is steam being produced you should be ok with that pigtail configuration. Who really cares where it sits when it's cold?



    My mercury vaporstat is configured with the loop oriented towards the boiler and it does not trip exactly at the set point, these are not precision instruments. I notice there is a difference in my level (cold to hot) even with the pigtail oriented correctly. It makes no difference to me me because it cuts off at the same point - 12 ozs.



    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
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  • FJLFJL Posts: 354Member
    edited February 2012
    V-stat Settings

    Actually, my v-stat is set closer to 16 oz than I thought.  Pictures below.  I wasn't paying too much attention to whether it shook while hot.  The boiler did not run very long.  Never got above two ounces before t-stat was satisfied.







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  • crash2009crash2009 Posts: 1,484Member
    edited February 2012
    Clarification

    What Gordo was suggesting, was to have the gauge up top like this.  In the future, when it comes time to make sure the pigtail is working, all you have to do is remove the gauge and blow.  Also the pigtail can be primed with water before the gauge is put back on.  Gordo also suggested a cross T.  A cross T would have a plug in it.  Others have suggested to me, to also have T's on both sides, with plugs (End T)  At cleaning time, all you have to remove is the 2 End T plugs and the Cross T plug, run a brush through from left to right, and a brush through into the boiler.  This is an easy maintenance that you and I as homeowners can do.  The double 45 was just an add on idea that I had, I was hoping to get some input on that from a pro's perspective. 
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  • FJLFJL Posts: 354Member
    Good Clarification

    Thanks.  Now I understand.  I thought you were saying my configuration had a double 45.  And yes, I can see the advantage of a plugged tee as well as two end tees.  
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  • nicholas bonham-carternicholas bonham-carter Posts: 5,472Member ✭✭✭
    edited February 2012
    header

    here is my setup, which uses the peerless tapping, and elbow below the outlet, which is a sort of syphon. above this you can see 2 pigtails in parallel, so at least one will be open. most of the upper piping is now brass. the extra outlet is for a second v-stat if i ever do a hi-lo gas train control. the multiple syphon should even out the pressure waves, as i have no snubber.--nbc
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  • Hap_HazzardHap_Hazzard Posts: 1,241Member ✭✭
    Brass Crosses

    These are hard to find. I finally found a source online that only charges about twice what they're worth instead of four times.



    http://www.plumbingfittingsdirect.com/brassfittings.html



    Anybody know of any other sources? I've been able to find a surprising variety of brass fittings and nipples at a local Sears Hardware store, but they don't have the crosses.
    1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S



    3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-24
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  • Hap_HazzardHap_Hazzard Posts: 1,241Member ✭✭
    That's one of those places

    where they think $16.72 is a decent price for a 1/2" brass cross. And that doesn't even include shipping. This should be about a $4.00 part.



    I do like their brass pigtails though. I like the way the 90s have 1 1/4 turns instead of 3/4 of a turn.
    1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S



    3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-24
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  • Long Beach EdLong Beach Ed Posts: 686Member
    Discounts

    McMaster heavily discounts their trade accounts.  The discount is based on annual sales volume.  
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This discussion has been closed.

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