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I did, yes I did...

My radiator spud bushing union thingy was stripped and my the old radiator valve was leaking...

I am sure you all know where this is headed

Had to sawszall the old valve off

Which means I needed to get the old bushing spud thing out of the 80 y/o radiator

Just for fun I thought I would throw the spud wrench in there....what do u know...It strips the bushing...BIG surprise

So my sawszall was taking too long to cut the bushing so I switched blades

Well the new blade cut fine

AND I CUT THROUGH THE RADIATOR BUSHING THREADS

Yes, and I put the bushing in and connected it all up...and it is leaking.

So based on my picture what r my options?

Don't tell me I have to tap out a bigger hole and put a larger bushing in...please no
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Comments

  • STEAM DOCTORSTEAM DOCTOR Posts: 520Member ✭✭
    teflon/rtv

    Try teflon(blue is better) and high temp silicone caulk on the male threads of the bushing.Also try to fill the notch that you cut with the high temp caulk before you put in bushing.Good luck
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  • AbracadabraAbracadabra Posts: 960Member ✭✭✭
    JB Weld?

    You could add some JB Weld on the threads.  But it ain't ever coming out again.
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  • ChrisJChrisJ Posts: 3,367Member ✭✭✭
    I can't help with a fix

    but I might help in the future.



    When we did my steam mains we cut the pipes off around an inch away from a fitting.  We then used a chisel and a hammer to fold the pipe in on it self by pounding in one area with the chisel which pulled it away from the threads in the fitting.  We did this on two different mains and it worked great both times.  It may be more work but there is no risk of cutting threads.
    Weil-McLain EG-40 connected to 392sqft of radiation via two 2" risers into a 3" drop header and 2" equalizer. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment Typical operating pressure 0.5 - 1.0 inch wc.

    Steam system pictures updated 1/25/15.
    https://picasaweb.google.com/thetube0a3/Boiler?authkey=Gv1sRgCImUxIqv9436MQ#

    Don't push the envelope, eliminate it.
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  • Hap_HazzardHap_Hazzard Posts: 1,241Member ✭✭
    I'd bore and tap it on general principle.

    With a bushing on there you'll at least have something you know you can get ahold of and unscrew the next time, and if you can't get the spud out of the bushing, oh well. You're only out a bushing (and a radiator spud, but they're not reusable anyway).



    I don't know who ever fantasized that you'd be able to take a brass fitting out, when it's threaded in as tight as it will go and has the threads sealed with pipe joint compound, by pushing against those two little bumps, which are partially corroded, with a tool that doesn't even engage them efficiently.



    To me a spud wrench is just for installing radiator spuds. I take them out by clipping the retaining ring and grabbing the end of the spud with a pipe wrench.



    Next time take your sawzall to the retaining ring. Then you'll have something you can get a wrench on.
    1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S



    3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-24
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  • MJ_in_centralPAMJ_in_centralPA Posts: 20Member
    thanks

    Thanks guys for your ideas....I will attempt the silicone and tape method first

    The spud wrench from HD wasn't even able to tighten the new spud

    By the way...if I put jb weld on it ill never b able to get the spud bashing out?

    Not even sawszall and pound it out?
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  • JasonAJasonA Posts: 17Member
    Works every time

    I have used this technique many times. Time consuming but it works
    Jason
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  • AbracadabraAbracadabra Posts: 960Member ✭✭✭
    sawzall

    What you could do is carefully put some JB Weld only at the cut. Then use a tap to clean out the threads a bit.  







    I use a sawzall too.  Just stop short of the fitting.  You don't need to cut the fitting all the way through.  Just enough to weaken it so when you hit it with a chisel, it breaks off at that point.  Kind of the same strategy as cutting glass.  Here's some pics of a recent sazwall job I had to do.





    http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/139477/Location-of-main-vent#p1252588
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  • Mike KusiakMike Kusiak Posts: 604Member
    Cleaning before assembly

    Make sure you clean and dry the threads and saw cut notches well before applying the silicone RTV. Use a wire brush and then clean with a rag and isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. Dry the surfaces well with a heat gun or hair dryer, as the silicone won't bond to a damp surface.



    If done properly the repair should last many years
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  • steampunksteampunk Posts: 28Member
    we've all done it

    just relax.  use a couple wraps of wicking on the male threads & you'll be fine.
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