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May have posted to wrong topic beforeJust bought house
Here is what I know
1964 American Standard Arcoliner wideback with General fittings tankless (estimated original cap 5GPM) 164,000BTU/hr Becket burner
Hi Limit Detroit Lubricator (Breaks burner line voltage on temp) Set at 185 Deg (Coasts up to 200+ ) Closes at approx 160 Deg
3 taco 007 circulators with 3 American Standard relays with terminals for TT and SS(stack switch is non existing but looks like they are wired and jumped)
3 luxon programable thermostats (new to replace old Honewell mercury round)
I assume thermostat controls circulators only but not sure.
Here is confusion.
SPDT American Standard aquastat in tankless well is wired NC(normaly closed)
back to TT on burner relay (however, it is always closed, I am assumining it is malfunctioning.) it is wired in parallel with wires going back to circulator relays but not sure why. I think that it is just a complex (cobbled) way to jump TT on burner relay. Possibly an attempt to disconect circulator and fire burner on low temp but not sure how. Not sure when NC opens( above or below adjustable setting)
On back is White Rogers 11d31-1 spdt wired to close on rise to break line voltage to circulators. Adjustable differential is set to as close to 0 as possible
If not set to 120Deg, circulators will not turn on and boiler will hang a few degrees above 160 deg on hi lim switch.
Is it normal to have such a differential from top (temp/pressure guage and lolim sensor? It seems like a rather primitive way to control.
Is boiler just bouncing between differential on hilim switch.
what about thermal shock? Should of cracked a long time ago.
30 deg outside with all 3 circulators calling for heat, boiler drops to 130degs and I still have hot water for shower. Tankless does have 30 gal aqua boost with its own circulator and separate aquastat.
heating approx 3000 sq/ft (1000 perzone) Have not updated insulation yet.
would Intellicon HW+ help save $ or just lower differential on hilim? Would circulators ever turn on?
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