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Replacement Combustion Chamber

Big EdBig Ed Member Posts: 774
The resent few chambers came with better puddy. The old stuff stuck to everything other then the cast plate. I use to use spray adheasive and KO wool strips instead of that stuff. It did not work.
I have enough experience to know , that I dont know it all
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Comments

  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Member Posts: 244
    Combustion Chambers

    Has anyone used the replacement combustion chambers from Lynn? The one I am particularly frustrated with is th Lynn chamber kit for the Weil Mclain model 68 boiler. The did a fantastic job in changing to a wet wall for the rear of the boiler. That makes the rear wall installation really tight and nice looking. My problem with Lynn is the goo they provide in the kit to seal the front plate to the boiler. There is no way this stuff comes off the wax paper without breaking apart or if you get any dust on it it will not stick to the cast iron. How about something in a tube? I am very frustrated here with this since I do 4-6 a year. Anty recomendations will be appreciated.
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  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Member Posts: 1
    Lynn Chamber Kits

    Using throw away gloves,pour a little of the water glass on the putty, it makes the job a bit easier. Good Luck
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  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Member Posts: 6,688
    We like

    the hi-temp red silicone caulk for sealing those front plates- and flue collectors, cleanout covers, etc. As long as it's not directly exposed to the flame, it's fine.

    You could also use the old standby, furnace cement, but the silicone is a lot neater and I think the silicone seal will last longer.

    "Steamhead"

    To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
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  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Member Posts: 171
    Only one easy quick way.............

    hi-temp red silicone caulking from a caulking gun. One tube will do 5 or more jobs. I never even open that putty stuff anymore.
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  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Member Posts: 2,981
    Honestly,

    I can say I've never used that monkey rope after the first time trying to get if off the wax paper.

    However, I tried a few things and found a combination of what Steamhead mentioned(high temp. silicone)and another Lynn product. 3/8" Kaowool rope, available in 25' sections and bagged, works the best.

    That's what they use on the "Gold" boilers from the factory.

    Bell Simons carries it and I'm sure anyone who gets chamber kits from Lynn products will be able to obtain it. Chris
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  • billtwocasebilltwocase Member Posts: 2,233
    chamber kits

    The guys know it. High temp silicone, rope, or furnace cement. The putty just drys up and falls out anyway. peace
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  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Member Posts: 244
    Ya gotta WONDER....

    Does anyone from LYNN combustion visit this web site?
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  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Member Posts: 15


    I like the idea of using high temp. silicone in the tube. The Max. temp. on silicone is only about 400 deg. if i'm not mistaken. Does it drip and run with oil boilers high temps?
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  • billtwocasebilltwocase Member Posts: 2,233
    silicone

    Jim, it will hold up just fine. Flue collectors, boiler plates have been sealed this way for years. peace
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  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Member Posts: 253


    don't use the "goo"
    use rtv high temp silicone
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  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Member Posts: 613
    I've mentioned this before........

    so here we go again. PLEASE, for this job throw the silicone tubes, and putty, and paste, and whatever else youre using in the garbage. Go get yourself a can of the spray adhesive 3-m makes. Clean out the groove where the so-called putty is intented to go. Spray the groove with the adhesive and allow about 3-5 minutes for it to "tack up". After its tacky,press in a cut to size piece of some 3/8" thermorope. I then take the spray can and roll it over the rope to get it set in the groove. I used that putty s**t ONE TIME and NEVER used it again. Its totally inadequate for the job. I DO however have a GIANT ball of it in my truck. Kind of like a rubber band ball. Quit screwing around with putty and silicone. I've found this to be the simplest and most effective way of dealing with this. 20+ years using this method has been all the proof I need. IT WORKS!
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  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Member Posts: 613
    I've mentioned this before........

    so here we go again. PLEASE, for this job throw the silicone tubes, and putty, and paste, and whatever else youre using in the garbage. Go get yourself a can of the spray adhesive 3-m makes. Clean out the groove where the so-called putty is intented to go. Spray the groove with the adhesive and allow about 3-5 minutes for it to "tack up". After its tacky,press in a cut to size piece of some 3/8" thermorope. I then take the spray can and roll it over the rope to get it set in the groove. I used that putty s**t ONE TIME and NEVER used it again. Its totally inadequate for the job. I DO however have a GIANT ball of it in my truck. Kind of like a rubber band ball. Quit screwing around with putty and silicone. I've found this to be the simplest and most effective way of dealing with this. 20+ years using this method has been all the proof I need. IT WORKS!
    ·
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Member Posts: 613
    Sorry....

    for the double click.
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  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Member Posts: 598
    which 3M spray?

    "can of the spray adhesive 3-m makes..."

    Which # 3M spray product? They make a ton of different adhesives!
    ·
This discussion has been closed.

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